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Noobie 73 240z WA


sinnersahuayo

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When I was putting back the woodruff key and pulley found a nice crack the pulley. Need help looking for a good used pulley. I put everything back so I could move the car but need a battery upgrade.

Just noticed the harmonic balancer in this thread and some comments how could it get this way.

The damage shown in the photos is most likely a loose bolt at some time in the past. The harmonic balancer can be a tight fit when it cold, but when the engine warms up its not so tight on the crank shaft and can slip back and forward. This will happen a lot if the car is idling in traffic.

The harmonic balancer wants to turn at a constant rate, but the engine sends it three pulses per revolution. The causes the balancer to "chatter" on the woodruff key wearing it out. It can also damage/crack the balancer as in this case.

I have seen this happen on diessel engines. The four cylinder engines will damage a loose pulley much faster because of the more unstable idle.

WARNING to all: If you manage to loosen the bolt while turning the engine with a socket wrench or forget to remove the wrench and start the engine. Tighten it to FSM specs. Don't tighten it to what ever you can get on a compression stoke and think it will be ok. If it comes loose it can do this damage.

This happened to me long time ago when I was doing the injector pump timing (drip test) on a diessel engine. The balancer was stuffed 4 months later.

Looks like your project is moving along. Good luck.

Chas

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bought some new used toy for me. My Dewalt light fell and broke. I went to the swap meet on Sunday and bought 2 light for 10 and a impact gun for 30. My new parts for my Z are polyurethane bushing, 2 spindle stud and locking nut. Also at Ace propane torch and black paint. It was easy taking part out. The two bushing near the gas tank where gone and the metal sleeve. The other one I had to grind down. I used my best friend the saw-all made easy work on the spindle stud. The end just fall out and the rest of the bushing i just burn them out. Strut housing was a different story. 30 min of heat and trying to beat it out with no movement. I just call it quit. Took it to the only machine shop in Kitsap Co 32 bucks later they had it out. Clean them up de-grease them and the wheel well also. Painted the part and let the wheel well dry other night. One side at a time. I think am going to make my spindle puller when I finish pass side. Also took my bumper off and motorcycle exhaust form PO.

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So i start working on the DR side rear arm and looking at the pass side. I copy with the flat part facing down. It took me 2 hr extra until i figure it out. control arm are interchangeable with driver-side and passenger side. you just have to flip up or down. I did one side at time. rear arm poly bushing finished. I will have to test it out and hard. I still need the mustache bar and front arms those are easy I hope.

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great progress!

there are a few really simple, inexpensive things you can do to quickly upgrade the driving experience - just to address the "touchpoints" that make the car feel nicer to drive. these things made a huge difference to me:

restore the steering wheel - lotta threads on this, you can do it in a couple hours. just sand down the "wood" part with incereasingly fine paper then you can either spray it with various clear coats or just wipe on some lemon oil. then some steel wool and a rattle can of satin black to the spokes and it will look/feel awesome.

next is to cover the seats - either a set of new vinyl (a little more spendy) or just get a set of inexpensive pull-over covers .

a quick way to enhance the driving experience and keep the fun factor up while you power through the other, less-enjoyable tasks...

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I'm enjoying this thread also, love the pics! And to agree with rossiz, those touchpoint things made a huge difference for me also. Feeling like I didn't need a tetanus shot after each work session was a huge plus. Not trying to distract from this thread, My seats before and after.

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