Hello Guys,

I am hoping that someone might be able to help me out here. I've gotten good advice previously here that has been very helpful.

What I have ~ '72 240Z. It has an L28 motor. I found a semi close ratio 5 spd that I am swapping in.

Pulled the tranny. And my philosophy is when you are that deep, replace the clutch set. Looked like the flywheel needs to be resurfaced but the rear engine main seal seems to be leaking so should do everything while I am in that deep.

So, here is the problem.

Did a lot of PB blaster to hopefully get things ready to loosen up.

One flywheel bolt loosened up. The next one spins. It doesn't come out any at all. I can turn it with a ratchet tightening or loosening, but it doesn't do either. It won't move from it's position.

I stopped there.

My thoughts are that I should try to get the rest of the bolts out then put a pry bar behind the flywheel while turning this bolt to remove it.

Any thoughts on that?

Also, do you know if there are thread inserts in the crank for the threads?

I hope there are! Otherwise, I am hoping that the bolt is striped and not the crank. Another possibility is that the PO put red lock tight in there and it is locked to an insert if there is one.

All of your help would certainly be appreciated.

Go to get my baby back on the road!

Thanks for your help,

John

The flywheel will be difficult to pry because it is a close tolerance locating fit on the end of the crankshaft. It won't **** enough to help before it binds up. In the same vein though, maybe a helper wiggling and pulling on the fly wheel while you turn the bolt, or vice versa, might do it.

Another thought - two plastic wedges on each side of the flywheel. Tap them in to where they're tight and keep tapping and loosening the bolt. The plastic wedge will keep some tension on the bolt while you try to loosen it, but will balance the force on the wheel. Might work. I think that I picked up a bunch of inexpensive little wedges from Harbor Freight.

I just pulled a flywheel last week and they're a tight fit.

No thread inserts from the factory. Remove the screws you can and prepare to drill the heads of those that won't come out normally. If the thread repair is beyond your skills or confidence take it to a machine shop for repair.

Thanks for the tip Zed Head. Looks like helicoils are in my future. I like the idea of the plastic wedges. They just opened a new big Harbor Freight near my home. I searched on their web page and can't find them. Do you have a picture you could post so I could show it to the guys at the store to help locate?

Hey Zed Head! I was a lucky guy! A strong younger best friend came over today. He was able to break the other 5 bolts loose and we used a monster screw driver to pry the flywheel off. Rotating from side to side. The great news is the 1 remaining bolt was stripped and not the crank. The bolt left its threads in the crank and to our amazement, the small local hardware store that is open on Sundays had the proper tap. Pretty sure the last person to put the flywheel on screwed it up. There wasn't any red locktite on the bolt as we expected but I'm pretty sure he did something wrong or the bolt was messed up.

It took a while to get the bolt threads out of the crank, but we were successful.

Also got the new ARP bolts in the mail so re-install will happen after I have the flywheel resurfaced and replace the rear main seal.

I am a smiling Z guy again. Thanks for your tips and advice.

I'll be using Locktite blue 242 and the bolt lube that came with the ARPs.

You have been very helpful to me with the situations I have encountered.

Thank You!

John

Good result.

nice!