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240z Fuse Box Replacement - Feedback Request - MSA, ST, Etc.


Hardway

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So my ’71 240z has the dreaded yet common parking circuit contact burn hole. I see that I can get MSA’s updated fuse box for $200 or get a used good condition box with a cover for $100 - $140 shipped. For those of you with the MSA fuse box, does the clear fuse cover still fit over it? So far the few reviews I have seen on the box’s functionality and benefits are very good. Can anyone else speak to the MSA box?

I have also seen the Blue Sea ST line of boxes that look very nice and are very affordable. If I went that route I know I would have to relocate the fuse box. I am thinking either making a custom glove box liner to mount the box or just putting it on the passenger side kick panel, much the like 280z’s had. This of course is not factory and this is where I am on the fence. I know I don't want it under the hood or to be easily seen. So these are my options, pony up at least $100 for a used fuse box but still use 40+ year old technology, pony up $200 and keep the original box location and have much more modern technology, or spend approx. $70 on a ST box and pieces needed to wire it up and relocate the box. No matter which way I go, the original box is outta here!

Fusebox01.jpg

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The MSA boxes are very good quality. They have no provision for the OEM lids to fit however. The curcuit ID's are printed on the circuit board so the lid is not required to remember what's what.

I have BlueSea stuff in my Z, exceptionally good quality. Using the right one gives you not only replacements for OE curcuits but room to grow for future additions. Get the 5032. ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block - Blue Sea Systems then you don't have to go hacking up the bus bar yourself. One side for IGN/ACC only, the other Hot all the time. Simple. Go get a couple of 6 pin connector blocks from OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha and make an lovely plug and play replacement.

I would stay away from used OE fuse boxes.

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I have the MSA fuse box and love it. True - the OE clear cover will not fit on the MSA box. Since it is under the ash tray cover I don't consider it an issue. At one time MSA had a cover available but no more. The MSA box had one pigtail connector wrong so I stole the correct one from my old box and transferred it.

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+1 on the link to vintageconnections.com (source jim lists above for connectors) - great stuff at a reasonable price. while i haven't replaced a fuse block, i bought a "professional kit" from them, which includes a great assortment of connectors and housings plus a really nice crimping tool. i've used these plugs on the z as well as on my motorcycles and am very happy with it. the spade connectors are brass and the tool gives excellent crimps - first one i've used that approaches factory quality.

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Great pictures for comparison Jim.

I betting the incorrect MSA connectors are actually just butt splice connectors, where you were supposed to cut your old spade connectors off your old box wiring and crimp the ends of the resulting pigtail wires into those butt splices. No doubt the instructions to do that were MIA....

Sourcing those large spade connectors is tough. I haven't found them yet. Anyone?

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You guys are great! This is exactly the kind of info I needed. I can see the value in the MSA box in the fact it only takes a few minutes to install. Of course the ST box from Blue Sea along with the connectors from JDM Electronics would make a sweet and expandable fuse box solution. Seeing that I plan on putting a Vintage Air system in the car at some point the ST box may be the way to go. Plus, by making some 6-pin connectors if anyone ever wanted to go back to a stock style fuse box they could.

zKars, can you expand on how you went about it building and installing your Blue Sea ST box?

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I actually use two BlueSea panels. One is a high current 4 fuse panel then 7748l SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block - Blue Sea Systems

This panel gives me the main high current alternator output fuse and whatever I want eventually that's I want high current protected.

Then I have a 12 fuse distribution panel with ground bus terminals, the 5026. ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems

I cut through the bus bar on the back of the 5026 somewhere along its length based on how many of the 12 circuits I wanted IGN/Acc and how many Constant 12, then ran a fat 8 gauge to the bus bar that I isolated.

Interestingly, I kept the stock fuse block (well, the MSA equivalent) to get me enough fuses for the total system. This puts all the new components on the new fuse panel and leaves most of the stock fuses for stock things, with the exception of Head lights and HVAC which are on the new panel.

Now all this and the bank of relays for all the new stuff (fans, light relays, HVAC etc) and wiring connections to everything are mounted on and around the passenger foot well area

Edited by zKars
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Thanks for all the feedback guys. Based on everything above I think I have figured out what I am going to do. I am going to go with a MSA box and get Dave's parking light harness and install the headlight relay harness that I already have. Then if I decide to add A/C to the car or anything else I will install a secondary ST fuse box to control power to those components. As brother J.D. would say, "its time to get out tha chuckboooook"

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  • 4 weeks later...

This is my first contact with the forum. Lot's of great info here, so thanks for that.

My recently-purchased 1973 240Z has the common fuse box melt issue. I am leaning toward the MSA box as a fix, but want to repair the underlying issue(s). Can someone enlighten me as to the "Dave's parking light harness" and headlight relay harness references in this thread?

Thanks in advance.

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