I've had two local people with this same leak. Both were fixed by re-torquing the head bolts. If you do need to change the head gasket, then you have nothing to lose by giving this a try.

Now just torquing them from their current tight position won't help, unless they are 1) loose, and 2) the threads are in excellent condition, neither of which are very likely. Whatever torque you apply is very unlikely to actually reach the threads and stretch the bolt properly. Take them out one at a time, same pattern as the torque method in the FSM (center to each end), clean the threads thoroughly, oil them, and put it back in, torquing in two steps.

There are two bolts, the center ones I believe, that are prone to being quite corroded and may not come loose very easily. Take it easy on those two. Of course they are the ones closest to the leak....

Which is probably why they corrode easily...makes sense. Thanks zKars, That would be the easiest and cheapest direction for sure as long as the head doesn't crack on me. For some reason I have this fear of it cracking while "re-torquing". Not sure why if I follow the proper torquing sequence.

BTW, can I get away with not removing the intake and exhaust header or will that hinder the re-torquing process?

BTW, can I get away with not removing the intake and exhaust header or will that hinder the re-torquing process?

Its best to remove the engine and remove all external equipment. Place the engine on an engine stand where you have nice and consistent foot and arm placement to ensure perfectly even torquing on all bolts.

Or stop worrying and just go tighten the bolts.... You can do it, I know you can.

Things are only going to move a tiny fraction of a millimeter so the other attached parts won't be affected. Interested to see if it works. I tried on mine, but it was too far gone. Good luck.

Zed Head, I was hoping someone would say that.

zKars, doing the work isn't an issue. It's "what can I avoid having to do". The back isn't so nice to me these days. So the less I have to do the better I am.

Thanks guys. I will post results when I do this.

fyi - one of my center head bolts snapped when i was taking off the head - it was corroded. luckily, it broke off 1" above the deck, allowing me to (thankfully) twist it out with vice grips after some pb blaster. i immediately bought a full set of new head bolts, wasn't about to replace my head and do all that work with suspect fasteners. they are not cheap - a set is about $100. yikes.

just saying... be careful with the "re-torque".

I broke a center bolt also when I finally took my head off. May be best to use the torque wrench for loosening also. If you can't get it loose at some set percentage (10%, 20%) above the desired torque setting, maybe leave it and try something else. Once you break one you're committed to removal. Better plan some down time just in case.

Iv'e decided to wait a couple of months when I can afford the time just in case.......... I will also buy a new set of head bolts just because. If I don't break one when removing them it could happen when re-installing them.