Saw this Cardone page from Rockauto and thought it was interesting. Resoldering and a test, and some identified common wear components replaced. Wonder what they are.

Product Detail

I bet Lenny could tell us. If he still visits this site.

I don't understand the "without California emissions" statement. I thought they were interchangeable..?

I think that it might just be the altitude switch circuit. It leans out the mixture when air pressure gets below a certain point. So they are interchangeable you just lose that function and run a little rich and dirty when you're in the mountains.

I took a look around for the switch and came across an atlanticz page that I didn't even know existed. The switch and a blow-up view are shown. Not sure where is is in the FSM.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/

Yeah I thought about that sometime after my post. I did test mine (when it was rich) but I can't remember where it is in the FSM either. Don't feel like making another trek to the garage for the FSM either, .

It was a pain in the butt to get to also!

Edited September 13, 201410 yr by rcb280z

Don't feel like making another trek to the garage for the FSM either, .

It was a pain in the butt to get to also!

I actually used my $50 FSM today. I didn't want to get my laptop greasy for torque numbers

Resoldering and a test, and some identified common wear components replaced. Wonder what they are.

It's just boiler plate marketing.

I wouldn't get my hopes up about anything specific.

It would be a pretty slick trick to clean and wave-"re"-solder the PCBs. I wonder whether they do that. Otherwise, I suspect it's just a clean-up, spruce-up, repaint. If it makes your car run, you're happy. If not, you return it for another one. I think others (Captain, Lenny, can't remember...) determined that there aren't really any common failure components -- no electrolytics or anything. These are pretty solidly designed/built circuits -- just elderly, with unique personalities.

I'm assuming they were licensed to be an authorized rebuilder of such things and were given enough info from Hitachi or Bosch to be able to test the module as a black box. Attach this cable and hit the "test" button. Probably runs through different simulated temperature, RPM, and air flow rates and then measures the pulse width output accordingly.

As for the solder touch up, it doesn't seem to me that it would be that difficult to re-wave an already done board. Pretty much all you need to know is the outside dimensions of the board so you have locations to attach it to the fixture, right? Of course, I've got no idea if they are actually doing such a thing, but it doesn't sound that unfathomable.

And, yes, I have verified (in my very limited experience of maybe three ECU's) that there are no electrolytics.

pretty solidly built -- just elderly, with unique personalities.

Wait a minute... Are you talking about the module, or their owners?