Exactly! I have to do that with the Z and even my bone-stock S2000. It just adds one step to the process, you get used to it.

Nice! I glued non-slip rubber mat to the bottom of mine so I don't chase them around the garage with the car. I'll take a pic if I get a chance. Now that the ZX has been replaced with the Z, the wood "ramps" don't get much use.

Nice! I glued non-slip rubber mat to the bottom of mine so I don't chase them around the garage with the car. I'll take a pic if I get a chance. Now that the ZX has been replaced with the Z, the wood "ramps" don't get much use.

Yet another great idea! As long as I have some momentum before hitting the wood, I typically don't have issues getting up on them. With that said, rossiz makes a good point, and most of the time I work on my cars at the shop anyway where I have access to lifts and whatnot.

One more thing I should mention about the Race Ramps is that they are VERY light. My wife has no problems whatsoever in lining up the ramps for me to drive up.

most of the time I work on my cars at the shop anyway where I have access to lifts and whatnot.

Lucky dog! In my next life I'm gonna have a lift.

That, and all the whatnots I can stuff into my toolbox.

Here's my nyet-skid ramps:

Used a very thin coat of that polyurethane based water curing glue. Elmers and Gorilla snot both make the stuff. Best thing I've found for this kind of application. Don't use too much or it foams and expands. Very thin coat.

A friend of mine back in the 70's had the cheap metal ones. Collapsed while he was under the car and killed him. Don't buy cheap metal ramps!

A friend of mine back in the 70's had the cheap metal ones. Collapsed while he was under the car and killed him. Don't buy cheap metal ramps!

That's why I grew tired of rolling the dice on my metal ramps and bought the Race Ramps. Plus the Race Ramps are taller than most any other ramp on the market. An extra inch can make all the difference.

An extra inch can make all the difference.

Nicely done Captain!

A friend of mine back in the 70's had the cheap metal ones. Collapsed while he was under the car and killed him. Don't buy cheap metal ramps!

Damn. That's why I've always used scissor jacks underneath metal ramps if I'm ever working underneath them.

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Thank you. I hate it when a perfectly good straight line is neglected.

A friend of mine back in the 70's had the cheap metal ones. Collapsed while he was under the car and killed him. Don't buy cheap metal ramps!

that's a sobering post...

while there are stronger ramps out there, our cars are pretty light and the ramps are only carrying one wheel load (roughly a quarter of the car weight).

i don't think i'd be rolling my old '69 skylark up on these (loved that car) but i'm feeling pretty far below the limits with a z. also, i believe the structure of a pressed metal ramp is highly dependent on its geometry, so it's critical that the ramps are on a solid, level surface. if they are allowed to distort during loading due to uneven surface or a portion sinking in to softer material (hot asphalt) then yes, once they lose their design geometry they can collapse.

i've heard of people being crushed when jack stands fell over - again, if not loaded evenly, say perhaps with the frame rail sitting off-center in the stand jaw, or if allowed to sink into a soft surface they will want to tilt and can collapse quite suddenly as well.

i wouldn't exactly call using a ramp correctly, for the proper weight rating to be "rolling the dice".

JR, Sorry to hear about your friend. Agreed. Don't buy cheap metal ramps! :mad:

And SteveJ & Mike, That was awesome.

i wouldn't exactly call using a ramp correctly, for the proper weight rating to be "rolling the dice".

The stamped steel ones like I used to have did not utilize any cross bracing. They were getting old, and I don't know how much corrosion they could tolerate. Unless I could accurately inspect them, I do believe I was incurring more risk than I would have liked.