It's about a year old. It probably has less than 3000 miles on it. It's a daily driver but only to the corner store for milk, .

There's a few electrical tests I still need to do. Hopefully I get out there today.

The test connections are at the connector/plug ("receptacle" = receiver) so your second tests were correct, and results look good. I would do Test #6, since that measures voltage during starting. Your starter could be drawing too many volts or your battery could be weak.

I would also do something similar Test #9, since the module grounds through the distributor body, except Iwould just measure resistance to ground. The ground is the other important part, that allows current flow. You can have correct voltage but low current and have problems. Measure resistance from the distributor body to the engine block. I don't know why they test voltage drop with the coil discharging. It seems like a good way to make a mistake and damage the module. Check the ground first.

I did test number 6 and 9.

Test 6 was steady around 9.5 volts which is good because it needs to be greater than 8.6 volts.

Test 9 was steady around .2 volts which is good because it needs to be less than .5 volts, however, for a split second I saw it jump up to 1.2 volts and I though I hear the sound of a spark but it was only for a split second. That happened when I cranked it over the first time but it fell back to .2 volts and held steady. I then cranked it over a second time to try and see if it would do it again but it didn't, it just held steady around .2 the whole time second time around.

Now, before doing these two tests, I tried starting it and the car started fine. For all I know the car got fixed when I sprayed the electronic cleaner into the connectors around the dizzy. We shall see.

Nope, the problem is still there....

Went to O'Reilly's, started no problem, but when I left there it took a while to get it to start. Also, I noticed that when it finally does start it seems weak as if something barely ignited and that helped it start.

Let me ask this, a few weeks ago I adjusted the timing when I didn't know what I was doing. I adjusted it according to what the suggested initial timing should be as listed in the FSM, INSTEAD of adjusting for high rpm/high vacuum. The timing was probably 16 degrees at the time so I ended up retarding it, can't remember what I retarded it to. Anyways, here's the question, is it possible to retard the timing so much that the car will have trouble starting?

Timing could be a factor but it would most likely be a consistent problem. Does the no-start happen randomly, whether the engine is cold or hot, or is it only when hot?

Timing could be a factor but it would most likely be a consistent problem. Does the no-start happen randomly, whether the engine is cold or hot, or is it only when hot?

Random, temperature doesn't seem to be a factor.

is it possible to retard the timing so much that the car will have trouble starting?

Yes it is.

Barely loosen the distributor hold down plate, put a golf tee in the vacuum hose off the vacuum advance and crank it. Turn it which ever way makes the valve train noise quietists then turn it counter clockwise about a 1/4" or so, if I recall correctly.

Yes it is.

Barely loosen the distributor hold down plate, put a golf tee in the vacuum hose off the vacuum advance and crank it. Turn it which ever way makes the valve train noise quietists then turn it counter clockwise about a 1/4" or so, if I recall correctly.

Do I do that while it's running?

Edit: nm, wouldn't make sense to not do it while it's running.

That's the way I learned without a light. Get it real quiet then back it up a tad.

Good luck!

I don't even know what the sound of the valve train sounds like, .

, I look down and I see the titles of some other threads: "turns over won't start", "turns over won't start", "turns over won't start"....

I'm trying to get my 65 mustang to start too. It turns over and it fires when I spray a bit of starter fluid. I'm just not sure how those mechanical pumps work. Obviously you aren't pumping fuel with the gas pedal while the engine is off... Anyways, got an active thread on a mustang forum going too. Still work in progress...

On our carbureted motors with a mechanical fuel pump there's an off center cup looking thing on the cam's nose in front of the timing sprocket that moves the pump's arm every time the cam turns. Ehh here's something I found on google, How A Fuel Pump Works

On our carbureted motors with a mechanical fuel pump there's an off center cup looking thing on the cam's nose in front of the timing sprocket that moves the pump's arm every time the cam turns. Ehh here's something I found on google, How A Fuel Pump Works

I see, so while the engine is cranking the fuel pump should be sending fuel to the carburetor. Thanks for the link.