Since the temperature for failure is so low, apparently, you might try the opposite of the typical ignition module over-heat test. Instead of cooling the module, heat it up. Start the car, let it run, and blow hot air on the module with a heat gun or hair dryer. If it is the module, the engine should start running poorly or die pretty quickly.

Looks like you're almost there. If it's not the module, and you're still getting spark when it dies, then that leaves the injection circuit. Maybe the ECU. Probably best to hope it's the module.

Chas you're like me. I'll ask total strangers for help on here but won't let anybody put hands on mine, they make me nervous.

Hi JMW,

I haven't been on the forum for a long-time, but when I read your post, I had to respond.  I had a similar problem with my 82 zx turbo about two years ago.  It was so frustrating, I was ready to sell it for parts (and it is pretty pristine).  A few months after purchasing the car I noticed an intermittent failure to start.  As a result I would bring it to several Z shop in Los Angeles ( no names ), spend a ton of money on it it would work for a few days and the go back to intermittent failure to start.

 

After going through a similar journey to yours, I made some progress.  I learned that if I pulled the wire and set it next to some metal on the car it would intermittently send a blue spark.  If it sparked, then it started immediately.  No blue spark, no start and no way to determine if it would spark.

 

Finally I sent it to Mike's Z Shop in Whittier.  He kept if for almost a month.  His first attempt was to rebuild the dizzy.  I disagreed, but wanted to respect his opinion.  He thought the problem was fixed, but wanted to drive her for a few weeks to double check.  The it failed to start for him.  He eventually realized that the ECU had a small hairline crack in it and if the temperature/humidity/whatever was right it would work and then it wouldn't.  He replaced it with a used ECU and for the past two years it has been perfect.  I love the car and it can sit for a couple of months and still starts on the first few cranks.

 

This may not have anything to do with your cars problems, but I know how frustrating it can be.  Hang in there and good luck.

 

Larry G 

I used to have an '81 Turbo - like 25 years ago - so I am going to throw this one out there....Does the '83 have a Crank Angle Sensor?  It seems that was a problem for me many moons ago when I had an S130 and might be worth a look.

I have owned three 83 turbo zx's.

The Crank Angle Sensor for 82 & 83 is located in the bottom of the distributor.  Mine would fail while driving, probably after it heated up.

 

Replaced it with NAPA module, about $100.  No problems after that.

I had a 83 280zx that had this same issue. At times the car would not start and other times it would start no problem. when it wouldn't crank I would push start it. So evidently push starting it bypassed some of the system to crank the car. I'll skip the horror story I went through before solving the problem. The problem was the pick up coil in the distributor a $9 part in the 90s. What I found was one of the two wires going into the coil was broken only making connection at times. You couldn't tell it by looking at it, only when I took a small screw driver pressing against the wires the screw driver passed through one of the wires, after replacing it I had no more issues cranking the car. I would replace this part no matter condition it looks like. Good Luck!

I'm back! I disappeared due to winter. Who wants to work on their car when it's freezing cold outside or raining even?

 

I haven't touched the car since Nov. I just went out there, looks like a dead battery. After I get a good charge on it I'll resume testing.

 

Just to refresh where I'm at, the potential culprits are; the module, the TIU (what is this and where is it?), the ECU (where is this? If I recall correctly it's inside car on driver side attached to left panel above feet), the crank angle sensor (I read above that it's at the bottom of the dizzy, but is it "inside" and in the bottom, or literally at the bottom/underneath the dizzy?), and last but not least, the pickup-coil (I'm not sure what this is either). I'll have to work to identify a couple of these parts.

 

Hopefully I figure this out soon, Texas has a new law, can't register unless it passes inspection, and my registration expires in 20 days! . At this point, I'm not even going to waste a whole lot of time "testing" stuff. I'd like to just replace the "most likely" culprit so if yall can, one by one, what should I replace first? Actually, I'm wondering if I should just get a whole dizzy since if I recall correctly it comes with the module and correct me if I'm wrong but it might come with a new crank angle sensor, and pickup coil? Any recommendations on a decent dizzy?

 

Much Thanks!!

JMW

The CAS is located inside the distributor - at the bottom, held in by 3 screws.  A 4 pin connector in the module connects to the harness plug thru the base.

 

Just to be clear, is this a NA or turbo car?

The CAS is located inside the distributor - at the bottom, held in by 3 screws.  A 4 pin connector in the module connects to the harness plug thru the base.

 

Just to be clear, is this a NA or turbo car?

It's not a turbo. What does NA mean?

NA means Naturally Aspirated. Just means no turbo or supercharger, only injection or carbs.

I ordered the Cardone from Rockauto as suggested in a previous post. I'm ready to get the ball rolling.

I put a charge on the battery and dropped in the rebuilt Cardone distributor (saving the old for parts or whatnot). It started, now I just need to check the timing since it might have moved slightly. ... hmmm what was that timing number.... guess I have to look for my book again, ugh.