83 280ZX won't start, won't fire. Just turns over.

[siteunseen]

Obviously you aren't pumping fuel with the gas pedal while the engine is off

My MaMaw used to pump the gas pedal in her Cadillac about 10 times before turning the key. My Dad said she was nuts but that Batmobile always cranked right up.

Maybe that's where the term "double pumper" comes from? :bulb:

[jmw_man]

Got the stang running. It took a good amount of carb cleaner.

Back to the Z....

I feel like I just need to wait till it won't ever start....

[Zed Head]

I would take a look at the relays involved. They're mechanical and do get stuck or sticky. Actually, I would just trace out the whole circuit that feeds the ignition system and the EFI system and examine each component and connection. I know someone that had a fuse in the trunk that would overheat while driving, opening the circuit at the connection points and killing everything, but leaving the fuse intact. After cooling, back to normal. It was a BMW though, so not directly applicable.

[jmw_man]

After cooling, back to normal.

Explain that part?

[Zed Head]

Things expand when they get warm. Gaps can open up. That's all. The current flowing through the wire and fuse caused the parts to heat up, the gap opened, the current stopped, the engine died. Then he would he sit beside the road and wait, the gap would close, the current could flow again, and he'd start the engine and drive on.

[jmw_man]

Oh, I got a remote starter so I could turn the engine while under the hood. Number 1 spark plug isn't sparking. I didn't check the others. The problem is definitely a spark problem. Still won't start. The problem no longer seems intermittent, it won't ever start now.

Anybody know of a way for me to test spark at the coil?

Edit: Although, as previously stated, I don't think it's the coil because way back when I put a new one in it still experienced the same problem. It's gotta be a bad ignition module. I'm thinking of just buying a new one. The tests I did on the ignition module a while back didn't fail it but the problem was afterall still intermittent. I'll just get a new one and then update here.

Edited October 31, 2014 by jmw_man

[Patcon]

As for the old cars and double pumper. Many four barrel carbs and some 2 barrels have an accelerator pump. double pumpers have 2 pumps, hence double pumpers. When the throttle is depressed the pump is operated by a cam and pumps fuel into the carb throat thru a jet. So in actuality you can pump fuel with the throttle on some cars. That is why she stepped on the throttle, to prime the car so it would start. Also on many older cars you have to depress the throttle all the way to the floor to set the choke. Doing it twice can knock the choke off. FWIW

Charles

[Zed Head]

Anybody know of a way for me to test spark at the coil?

.

You can connect a jumper wire to the negative post of the coil. Leave the other end hanging in air. Disconnect the center wire of the coil from the distributor cap and place it very close, about a spark plug gap distance, from a ground path, like the intake manifold or the car body. Turn the key to On/Run. Then tap the end of the wire to a ground path, like the engine block or intake manifold. Don't hold it there, just tap it quickly. Each tap should generate a spark at the center coil wire. Every third spark should cause the injectors to all click. If you get spark this way, that means the coil is working correctly, and if you get injector clicking, the ECU and its wiring.

[jmw_man]

Well crud. I thought for sure I'd be able to buy the ignition module at a cheap price because I saw that O'Reilly's lists the BWD part and another house brand for under $100. It turns out that they can't get those anymore and they could only offer something over $100. Actually, I think it was closer to $150 for their cheapest ignition module. Any pointers?

[Zed Head]

Looks like Rockauto has one for ~$85. But with the ZX distributors there are other things that tend to break, like the stator magnet, or the pickup coil, or the bushings in the distributor (which can break the magnet). You might be wasting your money assuming it's the module. Have you checked the distributor for damage? Might be better off to just get a complete distributor. Also on Rockauto for not much more.

In Post 30 you didn't mention if the key was on. With the remote starter you can turn the motor but not get spark if the key isn't on.

Do the test with the wire first, that will tell you if the the parts after the module are working. Tapping the wire, you will be doing essentially what the module does.

[EuroDat]

If the coil tests ok and it turns out to be the TIU in the dizzy there is a write up in http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/51102-gm-hei-module-install.html#post446171 on how to replace it with a HEI module.

A HEI module costs as little as $10 and will get it running. Gives you time to search for a good replacement distributor or make the HEI a perminent fix.

I had similar problems on my 77 280Z and did the HEI mod. The 280Z system is a little different with the TIU in the car, but the principle workings are the same.

Chas

Edited November 1, 2014 by EuroDat

[Zed Head]

I almost mentioned the GM HEI also. But I think that 1983 used the E12-92 module, as opposed to E12-80, which has a timing advance circuit, for emission purposes. Kind of like the dual point/pickup Z engines, controlled by a "thermo switch". It's doable, but he'd lose the advance circuit. Probably not a big deal but something to consider.

Might be worth the $20 and time though, to just wire in an HEI module to confirm that the stock module is bad, then decide whether or not to spend the $100+ to get the replacement. If it's not the module, he's only out the $20.