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Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z


grannyknot

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The ECU controls the fuel pump relay from pin20 on the ECU to the #85 ground wire on the relay, not through power or signal. Yes I can run the fuel pumps off of a switched power source with it's own ground and I have done so but if the ECU isn't sending pulses to the injectors anyway, it's still no start. There is also no signal being sent to the idle control valve.

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Is it possible that you're too far down the line?  Looking at outputs, but not inputs.  Maybe go back to the start of the sequence of events.  Is the CAS signal getting to the ECU?  That would be the "engine is rotating" signal, wouldn't it? Isn't that what the diagram means by "engine speed" sensor?  I know many Bimmers use the variable reluctor wheel on the damper. 

You'll need to know that signal is getting through anyway, even with Megasquirt.

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Anything is possible at this point, the speed sensor passes the resistance test as does the cable to the ECU, it only has 4000 miles on it since new and worked perfectly before I pulled the engine. In fact the engine/ ECU combo were were working perfectly when I carefully put everything away 1 year ago. I really don't know what else to do but start fresh. The ECU had been refurbished by Programa at some point in the 22 yrs before I bought the car and they will do it again for $500 USD, and if it still doesn't work then...    not too many people know about these operating systems anymore which is not the case with MS. I'm not much of an electronics guy so this is one problem that I am simply going to throw money at and buy my way out of it. I'll pay a pro to build me a rock solid system and then I can learn to tweak it a bit. I know to you guys who understand this stuff in your DNA this seems like a cop out but I just don't have a gift for it.

 

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Chris. I would not spend any money on it until I was certain it was needed. Diagnosing that way can get really expensive.

You shouldn't short change yourself either. A lot of us 280Z guys have been were you are now. The fsm could just as well be egyptian hieroglyphs, bug the efi bibble is not called the bibble for nothing. You need the BMW version of this bibble. Knowing bosch, it will be out there somewhere. I quickly googled bmw 1987 troubleshooting and found this http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm Not quite thd same, but close.

You can download the troubleshooting manual "1987 BMW L6 -M6 troubleshooting manual" Its 188 pages, but the important stuff for you is in the first 30 pages. Read the how to section up to page 8. Take the time to understand the method used for testing. The manual is based on you following this method.

I would go straight to page 0670-12 & 0670-13 and test the grounds. The ground tests after page 13 don't seem to have any relation to the motronic.

After the grounds, I would go to the front of that section and start testing the power supply (fused power distribution).

Basically the only sensor that will stop the motronic is the reference sensor. The rest including the speed sensor should send it to limp mode. You have nothing, so its a ground, power supply or dead ecu causing your problem.

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Chris, A piece of advice. It's nice to talk about all these problems with us datsun guys, but in reality we are not the experts. Approximate knowledge is about the best you will get from us. There might be a couple that play with bmw's, but chances they know a lot about motronic 1.0??

You need to get on the Bimmerforums or the Firstfives. They can help you a lot with this, and from what I have seen both forums are friendly. You might get some culture shock when you tell them what you are doing.

Edited by EuroDat
Typo
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Charles, that reminds me of a thread a couple of years back where one of the members here cut out one of the storage bin lids from the rear deck of a wrecked 240z and welded it in right above the fuel pump he installed in the gas tank. Only another Z guy would know it wasn't a stock access door, I'll see if I can find it.

Thanks for the idea!

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Fedx dropped off my POR15 tank sealer kit yesterday and I got home early today so I thought I would do the degreaser and metal prep stages and leave the sealer for tomorrow but after a an hour with the paint stripping heat gun blasting in it I couldn't touch the steel it was so hot so I guess it was dry enough. Man, what a mess!

If you end up doing this make sure you are wearing clothes you don't care about, it gets everywhere. After draining the the rest out of the tank there was so much left over that I coated the outside as well rather then just waste it.

DSCN0203.JPGDSCN0204.JPGDSCN0205.JPGDSCN0206.JPG

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I used that stuff in the tank. Emptied the tin in the tank, plugged all the holes and rolled it around the backyard for 15minutes. Then tried to drain as much as possible out of it and use compressed air to blow all the tubes clean so they wouldn't block up.

Never thought of using that stuff on the outside of the tank. I just coated mine with black rustoleum.

Neat mod btw.

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So I just ordered all the MegaSquirt stuff, they said they have a week lead time at the moment and with shipping I have about 2 weeks to wait until I can back to the engine. Here is the list,

 

MS2357-C MegaSquirt-II PCB v3.57 (SMT) Engine Management
System w/ black case

Jumper for VR input.
MOD_2357IGN1 Modify Megasquirt-II V3.57 for single Bosch BIP373
ignition output on pin 36.
Uses JS10 for spark A output pin. Spark output needs to
be set to Going High
JimStim-C JimStim v1.5 Assembled Unit
'JimStim' Stimulator with Wheel Simulator version 1.5

MSRelay-C MegaSquirt Relay and Power Board - Complete
Assembled Unit

MSRelayCable 4' MegaSquirt Relay Cable
LG-WireBund 10 foot (3.0 meter) bundle of prelabled TXL automotive
wire.

IATwPiggy GM Open Element IAT sensor with 6' pigtail
38NPT-Bung_A 3/8' NPT Aluminum Bung, with galvanized steel plug.
Perfect for welding onto intake/coolant plumbing for
IAT/CLT sensors.

TuneCable6 6' Ft DB9 Male / Female STRAIGHT THRU
WB-O2BP Mild Steel 18x1.5 thread- chamfered both sides.
 

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