EV6 injectors are a lot beter than the old EV1's. They can give better torque en fuel economy. They atomise fuel a lot better than the single pintle nozzle, but you read a lot of different opinions about that being better or not.

They are quieter then the EV1's.

"Quote".  That's your son? I follow his posts on Ratsun, clever boy, guess he takes after the old man.

Yep....and I asked him about the swap. He was positive....said it shouldn't be that hard of a swap. I was afraid it would be too much torque. I've got a friend who put an RB 26 in a Z. It would light up the tires at 80 mph (scarey fast). He thinks it's a fairly tame motor. Hats off for making the effort!

All the Megasquirt stuff arrived and I have started setting it up, big learning curve!

I installed the MAT, manifold air temp sensor right next to where the ICV idle control valve brings in air when the butterflys are closed. But just to the left of it is a 1" hose that connects to the valve cover and allows the top end of the engine to breathe, a lot of oil mist ends up in the air box and then gets sucked into the TBs or drains back to the oil pan but I'm sure that oil mist won't be much good for the MAT sensor so I have klunged up an oil seperator out of a dishwashing pot scrubber. The hose still breathes well but hopefully some of that oil mist will collect on the pot scrubber and drain back into the valve cover before getting to the airbox.

 

Hi Chris. You are going to learn a lot about mapping sensors and tuning. You will get it running easy, but running right err, umm. Bad fuel economy, pinging, rough idle, won't idle when cold are all part of the experience of tuning. Ask the guys on the BMW forums. Someone might give you his maps and make the hole operation a lot easier.

That is my exprience with LinkECU http://www.linkecu.com 

You have moved from "getting an efi system designed for the engine running again"  to "tuning a new efi system to match the engine" Don't get me wrong. I think the MS system will be much better in the end. It gives you much more tuning capabilities over Motronic 1.0. To do anything with the Mo you need to change the chip and then what you can do is limited.

Welcome to EFI 

Well I am in Megasquirt hell at the moment, nothing is working so I have put it all to one side and I have brought the Z into the garage to start test fitting for motor mounts and drive shaft angle. The good weather is wasting away while I learn how to use a laptop, enough. Back to some fun stuff. Bath time!

I went to remove the crossmember and ran into these on both sides covering the bolts that holds it on. This is definitely from the school of, F--K the next guy, now it's his problem! Can't wait to find what's hiding behind door #1 I think this is refered to as the chimney, I've never had to repair one before, I'm open to any tips anyone has,

Love PO's! How are you gonna repair the fresh air intake? I would drill out the 6-7 spot welds that hold the sheet metal rain cover over the intake. That will provide some room to work. If you need a new intake I can see if I have one you can use. I would probably use a body panel adhesive versus trying to get in there to weld it back. It is very confined with out opening the cowl all the way up

As one of the PO's of this car, all I can say is that I didn't know about these specific rust areas... but I suspected there'd be stuff like this lurking under all that undercoating.  Anyway, Grannyknot is an artist with a MIG welder, so this should be quite fix-able.

Chris:  PM sent

John, you ain't seen nothing yet, I keep finding more and more.

I hereby absolve Namerow of culpability for any and all rust found  on the car I bought from him. I knew what I was buying and it's still in much better shape than the last Z bought.

Charles, that's a good idea about the body panel adhesive, it is pretty tight in there. The chimney is crumbling but the bottom pan that supports it and would stay wet longer is very sound, surface rust only.

Here is what I found behind the brazed on plates above the crossmember, not sure how I'm going to replace that at the moment. They are 12-14 ga plates but have a factory pressed indentation for the crossmember bolts. Maybe if I heat them up to cherry red and take a big ballpeen hammer to it.

 

Do you need the chimney? I sold those plates to someone, I don't think I have any more but I would think someone on your side of the border could source some for you. They are normally not that rotten. the metal behind them is normally what's gone

Charles, it would cause you a lot more work to get in there and cut yours out then it would be for me to make a new one, thanks I appreciate it but it's asking too much.

Are you saying there are after market plates for the crossmember support?

For the chimney, I have a parts car that is gonna get cut up anyway. I have a plasma cutter, probably a ten minute job. I took the plates off the parts car, I would get a set off a donor car

Maybe Zcars or someone North of the border has some...