Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

[grannyknot]

Chas, I think I see what you are saying so I have ordered the TTT lowered tie-rods, they should arrive late next week. I also re-installed the modified crossmember that has the lowered steering rack mounts, that way the only thing that will have changed in the steering/suspension geometry will be the height of the rack so the LCA's and the rack will be parallel again. I also modified the LCA anchor point so that will be there if needed.

One of the best things about this build is all the new areas of study that are coming up, things I have only touched on before now require an in depth familiarity.  The Tabco replacemnet panels came in the the other day,

and headed off to the pick and pull to find a vacuum pump, didn't locate one but picked up 3 Kia Spotage door seals incase the new seals don't work, also a couple of Idle air control valves, a spare TPS reostat and a nice Audi power distribtion box.

Also, most of the Megasquirt problems have finally been sorted out so now the engine test stand can be dismantled and I can start final test fitting with the engine/tranny in the car.

[grannyknot]

The off set tie rods came in from TTT, they look very pretty, going to install tomorrow and then do some more bumpsteer measurements

The new chromed bumpers also came in from Futofab, very pleased with them, they are flawless and were well pakaged, a great company to deal with. FEDEX absolutely raped me on the shipping costs, I don't even want to say how much but,  the bumpers are perfect.

[Namerow]

For our American Z-car friends, you have no idea how much more expensive it is to have a 'car habit' when you live outside of the USA.  We never get access to those 'free shipping' specials that those of you who live inside the USA enjoy and we get absolutely killed by FedEx and UPS brokerage fees when parts come across the border.  Add to this customs duties and local sales taxes and -- here in Canada, anyway -- you can pretty much take any advertised price for a part from a USA vendor and add over 50% to figure out what the delivered cost will be.  As an example, the premium that I paid over vendor's list price for a set of Wesco seat belts was 68%. 

And then there's the currency exchange.  But that's another story.

[EuroDat]

@Namerow. I have paid a lot more than 68%. A couple of yesrs back I ordrrd a air dam from MSA. The package was 15cm too long, so Fedex charged for oversized package. That added an extra $70.

Anyway, I paid $165 for thd airdam and $310 for shipping and then another $120 for Fedex admin costs, customs charges and gst. Thats $590 for a airdam that someone in the US can get for less than $200.

Grannyknot: Those tie-rods certainy look neat. TTT is not cheap, but it sure has bing bing.

[RyanT67]

Might be time to start using US address shipping service, Chris.  Not a short drive to the border for you, but it can quickly save you quite a lot of money.  I recall ordering an air dam and getting free shipping within the lower 48.  The guy at the border waved me through too, no taxes that time.  Helps with ebay sellers that aren't comfortable shipping outside the US too.  I use kinek.com

Bumpers look great, clean lines!

[Hank240]

31 minutes ago, RyanT67 said:

Might be time to start using US address shipping service, Chris.  Not a short drive to the border for you, but it can quickly save you quite a lot of money.  I recall ordering an air dam and getting free shipping within the lower 48.  The guy at the border waved me through too, no taxes that time.  Helps with ebay sellers that aren't comfortable shipping outside the US too.  I use kinek.com

Bumpers look great, clean lines!

I use CBI USA in Niagara Falls, NY as my shipping location in the USA - its 5 minutes across the Rainbow Bridge. In fact, I zipped down from Burlington on my lunch today and picked up a set of Wesco seat belts - and the fine Canadian border guard lady let me through without duties. usually you have to pay duties, but its worth it so you don't have to pay brokerage fees and FedEx.

Chris - your project is coming along nicely !

cheers 

[grannyknot]

Well I guess I'm not that bad off then, my S/H was 52% of product cost. The thing I like the best about these bumpers are there are no holes for the rubber protective straps, just simple and clean.

Got the TTT tie rods in and played with them so that the car can go from just a little higher than normal driving height, hit a bump and bottom out with 0 toe in or out. The strange thing is the D/S rod end is lowered 1.125" from the steering knuckle but the P/S had to be lowered 1.5" to get the same 0 reading.  If I lower the P/S the same amount as the D/S the P/S has 7mm of toe in.

The stack of washers under the lock nut is just so I don't have to cut into the fresh nylon of the lock nut until the final assembly.

[EuroDat]

Hi Chris, Looking good. I like your idea with the washers. Nylock nuts don't like being re-used and on the steering is not a good place to start. 

You are probably going through the same thing we went through.

I think it might be in the alignment of the radius lower control arm versus the radius of the steering arm. The steering rack is not centered, a little to the left or right can cause this, so the inner steering swivels is not geometrically the same. Its hard to tell with the rubber accordian in place, but if you can losen one end and slide them to one side you can check if the rack is centered correctly. 

Just because the steering wheel is centred, doesn't mean the rack is positioned central between the control arms. People often play with the steering wheel so the wheel is centred when driving down the road, but don't realise it can effect the steering geometry.

You are getting there. I like watching your progress.

[Careless]

i hope those aren't the same bumpers i have been trying to fit on the gold car. the position of the side tabs on the rear bumper are not even close to the proper location, and they use stupid SAE hardware which makes using a ratchet impossible, and a wrench becomes a pain in the butt because of the increase in hex size.

 

suspension stuff lookin' good!

 

what did u do about the crack in the head?

Edited September 17, 2016 by Careless

[grannyknot]

6 hours ago, Careless said:

i hope those aren't the same bumpers i have been trying to fit on the gold car. the position of the side tabs on the rear bumper are not even close to the proper location, and they use stupid SAE hardware which makes using a ratchet impossible, and a wrench becomes a pain in the butt because of the increase in hex size.

 

suspension stuff lookin' good!

 

what did u do about the crack in the head?

I hope so too! I think I will pull them out of their protective cocoons today and try some test fitting, thanks for the heads up.

I have a guy coming to my place with a portable tig unit to seal it up, he was suppose to call this week but nothing yet so I have moved ahead finally and got the engine sitting in the car.  Just  starting to play with engine mount/tranny mount designs. I have about 1/2" clearance from the top of the engine to the hood which is okay I guess but I would like more, so time to rearrange the furniture again without screwing up the toe in/out.

Here is the stock bmw on/off idle control valve that Matt the MS tuner wants me to replace,

Here is the new stepper motor version that will replace it, not as sleek looking but it is completely hidden and it works well,

[Careless]

looks like all she needs is a weatherpak connector and she's good to go.

1/2" hood clearance should be more than enough with poly engine mounts. 

if Monsieur TIG doesn't make it there, you are still welcome to the DuraFix aluminum rod!

[grannyknot]

Well I'm relieved to say that FutoFab's bumpers not only look great but they also fit very well and have the correct metric attachments. I just placed the fenders on with no screws and it all lined up well, Dave Patten the owner is also a good guy to deal with, very professional.