those do look different from the ones I have been trying to fit.

they look a million times better in comparison.

12 hours ago, Careless said:

those do look different from the ones I have been trying to fit.

they look a million times better in comparison.

Where did you get them?

9 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Where did you get them?

i didn't. they were there when i started working on the car.

Had to extend the D/S crossmember engine support and shave some from the P/S, also got the motor mounts roughed in today, I know they are way over built but if I get bored over the winter I'll drill some of the weight out of them. On the P/S I'll have to install some kind of heat baffle to keep the rubber mount from melting with the header right above it.

I'll stay with this clearance  until I get the hood on again, I may be able to give myself a bit more room between the oil pan and steering rack.

This is a cool little device that I picked up over the winter to help get the lathe leveled but it's turning out to be fantastic for working out the driveline angles. It's a digital inclinometer, it will filp the reading if it is upside down and you can zero it at any angle which makes really simple to know which way to adjust the shims. Not bad for $30 on ebay.

I think I will have to lower the front of the diff. a few degrees and shift the alignment of the transmission over to the P/S so it better lines up with the diff.

The picture of the mount with your hand in it, did you weld that up? The welding on that looks really sharp!

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

The picture of the mount with your hand in it, did you weld that up? The welding on that looks really sharp!

 thank you, that is using the Millermatic 211, great machine.

MIG'ing that? You did a great job! A good machine really helps. I don't have the correct technic to make welds like that yet. I'm getting there, but slowly

If you still need more oil pan clearance, you could always go Dry Sump. Yes I'm an evil person....

4 hours ago, Chickenman said:

If you still need more oil pan clearance, you could always go Dry Sump. Yes I'm an evil person....

Oh I looked into the dry sump and wet sump with a remote pump, very expensive!

But just today I 95% finished the engine and tranny mounts and I have 1/2" between the oil pan and steering rack and 1/2" between the air box and the hood and could probably tweak another 1/4" if I tried.   So, it fits! I could always slice the top front corner off the cast aluminum air box which would give me lots of room to play with but now I don't think I will have to.  I shimmed the hood up to where I want it and can just get my pinky between it and the air box.

 

Don't forget engine movement, on rubber mounts.

On 9/25/2016 at 8:33 PM, Zed Head said:

Don't forget engine movement, on rubber mounts.

I think I have that covered but we'll see.

I got the skid plate for the oil pan done today and Ben finally stopped by and welded up the crack in the head, I sort of thought that he would just be filling the crack and the V I cut into it but he did a structural  weld including the crack on the bottom of the head surface. I just need to do some light grinding to clean it up a bit before I seal the engine back up.

Started work on the getting the radiator installed, had to cut a notch out of the P/S frame but will reinforce it when it gets back from the chemical dip. I'm going to leave all the holes and modifications open so there will be good flow of acid through all the nooks and crannys.

With some mods to the original air filter box I think I can re use it,

A little air conditioning anyone? There is enough weight up front in the engine bay so I will re locate the battery to behind the passenger seat, just have to build a box to seal it in and also it will help reinforce the arch. There is a surprising amount of room above the rear A arms.