Jump to content
We Need Your Help! ×

IGNORED

Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z


grannyknot

Recommended Posts

5 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Also what is that residual pressure valve? Never heard of that... I'll have to read up. But in the meantime, won't any residual pressure in the rear lines encourage the rear shoes to drag? Is that an alternative in case the rear auto adjusters don't work right?

The 4-6" that the hand brake handle moves only translates into 1/10" at the pads, having the shoes drag a bit will ensure that the full 1/10" is able to be used. With all the problems that have been encountered when changing to rear discs I just want to make sure I have done everything I can to make sure they work the first time. Can't get the car on the road without a safety certificate, can't get a safety certificate without a mechanic pulling up on the hand brake.  It has to work and it's easier to do it now then later. Really it's only half a pound per pad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re pix of your dash, it looks like you intend to pit it back in the car as a completely assembled unit (i.e. gauges, hvac vent tubes, and glove box all in place).  I assume that you've used this procedure before and it works, so my question:  Will you put the heater/blower assembly in the car first, followed by the dash assembly?  Or will it be dash first, heater/blower after?

Also:  For the mod to the park brake handle, how much additional thread length did you add to the adjuster rod?  And where in the system is the return spring that Captain O. was talking about? (or is that specific to a rear disc set-up?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I lowered my parking brake handle, I didn't need to add anything to the adjuster rod. Thankfully the rod already had enough adjustment length that all I had to do was readjust the linkage, but didn't have to modify it any way. Hopefully granny will have the same ease in that regard.

The return spring I was talking about was something that I added at the base of the handle assy inside the car. More details in this thread:
http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49952-parking-brake-handle-return-spring/

But here's one pic:
P1060465_zpsurgrd9zm.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes heater box and blower go in first then dash.

Well, I'm not sure how much extra threads need to be cut, I just ran the the threading die down the adjusting rod an 1 1/2" to be on the safe side. I would never presume know what the Capt. is talking about:P but there is a small return spring in the hand brake handle and the larger return springs on the disc brake calipers to release the pads from the park position.

CO, I'm going to lay on the charm and do my best to get those shots of the car being submerged but I won't be surprised if there is some legal stipulation preventing me. When I was there in the summer to get the gas tank cleaned I looked over to the dipping tank area and it was dim, steamy and grungy.

Cooling my heels for a few days as the trailer service I have hired to do the 4 transports can't fit me in until Wed.  This is the engine test stand from last summer with all of the upright supports cut off, it will now be the transport dolly until the drivetrain is installed.

DSCN1056.JPGDSCN1063.JPGTechnostrip mostly deals with industrial hardware and American classic cars so I thought a bit of cheap insurance was in order,

DSCN1058.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.