Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

[240260280]

Basting the pig.

 

 

Chris,

I'm miles from a dipper so I'm  planning on doing it myself.... dipping my car hill-billy style at home.

I will hook up a treadmill motor to my rotisserie and drip phosphoric acid from an overhead hose.  A plastic sheet and frame will collect it on the bottom where it will drain to a reservoir and be pumped back up to the drip line.

I'm not sure if it was ever done before but hopefully it will work.  

 

It is a bit like how they re-use formaldehyde in medical school on "specimens".

 

[Patcon]

3 hours ago, 240260280 said:

drain to a reservoir and be pumped back up to the drip line.

Finding an acid resistant pump can be an issue. I bought a cheap parts washer to use with a rust remover. The rust remover ate the pump internals...

[240dkw]

You need a peristaltic pump.
 http://www.instructables.com/id/Inexpensive-easy-to-build-peristaltic-pump/ 

[grannyknot]

On 2/11/2017 at 11:53 AM, Namerow said:

  For their Z project, it's interesting to seethat the dip process apparently didn't strip the asphalt sound-deadening pad off the floors. 

Techno strip uses 4-5 separate tanks, the first one I guess would be a strong detergent then a solvent ...       I know their process is acid based, I asked them. He also said the asphalt tar mats would come off with no problem, better him than me.

22 hours ago, 240260280 said:

 

I will hook up a treadmill motor to my rotisserie and drip phosphoric acid from an overhead hose.  A plastic sheet and frame will collect it on the bottom where it will drain to a reservoir and be pumped back up to the drip line.

I'm not sure if it was ever done before but hopefully it will work. 

 

I'm thinking that maybe you are pulling my leg?  Trying to picture this rig out on your driveway, the Z up on a rotisserie with clear plastic sheeting forming a pool/reservior, a long pipe with holes drilled in it as the shower head and an old motor geared down so the car spins slowly so that all surfaces are kept wet .

I can just see the look on your wife's face

With some time on my hands I'm starting to second guess decisions I have already made, here is one

the aluminum driveshaft adapter I made, I'm thinking about the threads of those M8 bolts and what may happen if I can't torque them properly because of the aluminum. Can anyone advise me if Helicoils installed with Locktite into the aluminum flange would give anymore strength?

There has been a couple of threads in the last year that dealt the hinge flange breaking off the rear hatch so before I get into the paint I thought I would throw some extra welds on mine just in case,

  thought I would start playing around with the badging, I'm open to suggestions,

[Namerow]

Re hatch logo arrangements, I vote for #1.

Re the steel helicoil inserts:   There's still going to be a steel-into-aluminum thread.  However, the load face (thread contact area) for helicoil-into-hub is going to be a lot bigger than it would be for the bolt-into-hub alternative, so that's a good thing.  I wonder if it might be better, though, to go to interference-fit steel inserts (internal thread only).  Heat the hub, chill the insert, tap into place.  You've left a pretty broad shoulder outboard of the bolt holes, so I don't think an interference-fit insert is going to cause cracking to the outside face.There are well-established engineering principles to calculate the amount of interference required (based on male and female part materials and on the inside/outside diameters of the insert).  Hopefully, someone who's active in design engineering can help out.  A good machinist would probably know, too, just based on experience.  Seat-of-the-pants guess is 0.003" - 0.004". 

[rossiz]

"badges? -- we don't need no stinking badges!!"

since it's a complete re-paint, why not shave all the extras and have a total sleeper?

[Captain Obvious]

Re hatch logo arrangements - Do you have any M6 logos? If not, I vote for the last one.

Re the drive shaft coupler - I don't know what thread inserts would add there. Honestly, I was never completely comfortable with the choice of aluminum for the coupler. I know it would have been more difficult to work with, but I would have used steel for the whole thing.

[siteunseen]

"but you said rape twice?  I like rape!" 

I like the first picture best or smooth like Rossiz, let em guess what blew the doors off their Porsche.

Edited February 13, 2017 by siteunseen

[Captain Obvious]

Chewing gum in line?????

[grannyknot]

5 hours ago, Namerow said:

Re hatch logo arrangements, I vote for #1.

Re the steel helicoil inserts:    I wonder if it might be better, though, to go to interference-fit steel inserts (internal thread only). 

That's a great idea, less chance of movement starting in the first place.

2 hours ago, rossiz said:

"badges? -- we don't need no stinking badges!!"

since it's a complete re-paint, why not shave all the extras and have a total sleeper?

I'm just playing around, not sure if I will use any of them. The last Z I had was clean of badges except for the two Datsun badges on the front fenders and there always seemed to be guys getting real close to the car on the highway trying to figure out what kind of car it was, so I stuck a 240z badge on the rear spoiler and that seemed to help.  Maybe I was imagining it.

1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

Re hatch logo arrangements - Do you have any M6 logos? If not, I vote for the last one.

Re the drive shaft coupler - I don't know what thread inserts would add there. Honestly, I was never completely comfortable with the choice of aluminum for the coupler. I know it would have been more difficult to work with, but I would have used steel for the whole thing.

Make it real make it steel, that would be best and I might have to go that way if I can't get the aluminum one to work.

Rape, chewing gum ?

[siteunseen]

Blazing Saddles quotes.

 

Edited February 13, 2017 by siteunseen

[240260280]

Maybe use longer bolts and place a captive nut on the back side where they protrude