On 2/13/2017 at 5:58 PM, 240260280 said:

Maybe use longer bolts and place a captive nut on the back side where they protrude

You ever got your hand in that corner, I know you have but it's tough and I only had to reinstall the rear deck spoiler after paint. 

  On 2/13/2017 at 6:08 PM, siteunseen said:

You ever got your hand in that corner, I know you have but it's tough and I only had to reinstall the rear deck spoiler after paint. 

Good point Mr. C!  Studs would do the trick with nuts at each end.

Put the stud in  with it skewed to the front then turn it in enough to have a captive nut on each end.

Okay Fonzie.

  On 2/13/2017 at 6:23 PM, 240260280 said:

Good point Mr. C!  Studs would do the trick with nuts at each end.

Put the stud in  with it skewed to the front then turn it in enough to have a captive nut on each end.

Can't get a nuts on the inside of the flange, not enough room, the 4 diff bolts are just kissing the central core of the the adapter now.  Derek over on Hybridz suggested http://www.timesert.com/

They really have put some thought into their design, would certainly have some advantages over helicoil.  But not cheap. Also there is a an insert called a keensert that has an interesting locking system. This is an engineering site that has a walk through on the various types, interesting stuff. http://www.repairengineering.com/thread-repair.html

Edited February 14, 20178 yr by grannyknot

i have to agree w/the captain re: the aluminum - couple of concerns:

• dissimilar metals - corrosion
• the sharp inside corner transitions - stress concentration/cracking

wouldn't want to be wondering about that coupler all the time, especially with extra oomph coming from that power plant.

oh, and i was going for the "original" quote from the federales: 

 

Mak

  On 2/13/2017 at 5:05 PM, grannyknot said:

Make it real make it steel

Never heard that, but I like it. I was just figuring that you're only ever going to have to do this once, I would have designed for overkill. Even though it's not a "safety part" like seat mounts, crash safety, or suspension integrity, the cost of failure is pretty high. It'll rip up the underside pretty good if that thing goes out. On the good side, (depending on how loud your exhaust system is), you'll most likely hear knocking around before an all out failure.

RE the other comments, siteunseen and I went off on one of our all too often ADHD inspired Blazing Saddles excursions. Sorry for the distraction.    Rossiz was going original classic and Cliff and I went with the satirical irreverent version.

Ooooooooh BABY! I am pumped. I'll take some better pics tomorrow.

 

I dunno. I think my method of sandblasting every night for three months and achieving half as good results was a better way...

That's fricken awesome!!! Can I bring you my car???

I should have taken the springs out of the door hinges, something in the process took the spring out of them, I have a couple of others that I can use. I got to peek into the tank room, the first tank is labeled Alkaline, the second tank Hot Caustic, the third was Pickling and that was as far as I could see before being shooed out.

Looks like someone did some nice quarter panel work at some point in the past, funny how one side was brazed and the other was welded. There are a couple of spots of rust that didn't come out and they are both on seams,

Here is the two joints of the roof into the rear quarters with the lead solder,

If there is any places in particular that anyone would like pics of just let me know.

I was hoping that I could get it up on the rotisserie tomorrow but I think I better fix this first,

wow - KLEEEN!!

she's got no sectets to hide now...

I'd hate to wizz those guys off, never to be seen again.  That is cool!  It really does set back sandblasting, has to be cheaper overall.