Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

[Namerow]

Excellent result.  Did any more pine cones or dead mice float to the surface?

I have a complete set of door hinges off my original '72 if you come up short in your spares pile.

The welding/brazing will undoubtedly have been the work of Deiter Roth (aka 'The Z Meister'), who ran a Z service/performance operation similar to Whiteheads out of a shop in north Oshawa. Deiter was one of the founders of the Ontario Z Owners Association and was a pretty fair hand with a wrench or a torch.  He was the one who scouted this car for me back in 2007 (it belonged to a former client of his named Steve Tustin).  Deiter and his wife were living in Port Hope when I last had contact a few years back.

[Patcon]

I would think the welded patch and the brazed patch were two different repairs. I agree a little reinforcement is in order before the rotisserie! Looked like a number of patches under the drivers seat too...

[grannyknot]

11 hours ago, Namerow said:

Excellent result.  Did any more pine cones or dead mice float to the surface?

I have a complete set of door hinges off my original '72 if you come up short in your spares pile.

The welding/brazing will undoubtedly have been the work of Deiter Roth (aka 'The Z Meister'), who ran a Z service/performance operation similar to Whiteheads out of a shop in north Oshawa. Deiter was one of the founders of the Ontario Z Owners Association and was a pretty fair hand with a wrench or a torch.  He was the one who scouted this car for me back in 2007 (it belonged to a former client of his named Steve Tustin).  Deiter and his wife were living in Port Hope when I last had contact a few years back.

No, no more pine cones but I just realized, the car doesn't smell like mouse wizz anymore!

15 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I would think the welded patch and the brazed patch were two different repairs. I agree a little reinforcement is in order before the rotisserie! Looked like a number of patches under the drivers seat too...

Funny enough, the P/S rear bumper mount was very solid with no rust , just the outside panel metal is a mess, the D/S rear mount I had to remove and build a new one,

I was wrong about those pics I took of the seam connecting the roof to the back quarter, that isn't lead solder, it's  a steel weld, the lead is gone, it all melted off. In fact I found a puddle of it that had drained down from the two points on the A pillar where is was used,

Original vintage Nissan lead solder in an ingot, ebay here I come.

Here is a couple of good shots of the line worker's screw up and fix,

and I got it up on the rotisserie just before quitting time,

[Captain Obvious]

I love the look. It's a view of a Z that I've never seen before. Have you considered clear coat only and do the DeLorean thing?

Couple (real) questions:

1) Would the paint guys consider the clean metal surfaces "ready to paint" or would there be additional clean-up that would need to be done? Just a wipe down with solvent, or something more labor intensive?

2) How long do you think you have to get paint on there before things start rusting?  I know that in my garage it only takes a day or two for surface rust to start on completely clean surfaces. I'm guessing that the pickling solution in the third tank applied a rust preventative coating of sorts?

3) Do you really think the solder melted? Do you think the bath(s) were that hot?

[grannyknot]

10 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

I love the look. It's a view of a Z that I've never seen before. Have you considered clear coat only and do the DeLorean thing?

Couple (real) questions:

1) Would the paint guys consider the clean metal surfaces "ready to paint" or would there be additional clean-up that would need to be done? Just a wipe down with solvent, or something more labor intensive?

2) How long do you think you have to get paint on there before things start rusting?  I know that in my garage it only takes a day or two for surface rust to start on completely clean surfaces. I'm guessing that the pickling solution in the third tank applied a rust preventative coating of sorts?

3) Do you really think the solder melted? Do you think the bath(s) were that hot?

There is no lead left where it is usually applied, the join between the bottom of the A pillar, the top of the A pillar and the join from the roof to the back quarters, and there was that puddle at the bottom of the A pillar and that was not there before I sent it out.

They spray or dip the car in a bath of water soluble rust inhibitor that they say is good for 2-3 weeks. I told the shop manager that I had at least a month of work to do on the car and he very kindly gave me 2 litres of the rust inhibitor concentrate so I can spray the whole thing down again a few times. I also have a gallon on Eastwood's After Blast that works really well.

wipe it with solvent and maybe rough it up a bit with some 300 grit and it is ready for 2 part epoxy primer. A lot of paint shops these days are also wiping down with these new water based cleaners after the solvent, apparently the cloth comes away filthy even after the solvent. I'm hoping to try this stuff on the bottom of the car before I prime.

Have you ever seen the hot rods that are still bare metal, apparently they are wiping down the metal every couple of weeks with GIBBS oil, I have a couple of test pieces that I coated with Gibbs when I got a can last month. They say you can keep the bare metal looking perfect indefinitely with regular applications. I'm thinking about it, I love the bare metal look as well.

Also, I was talking to my megasquirt guru Matt and was mentioning that the air filter for the air box was causing a lot of headaches and he said, "Well, actually you don't really need that air box, it was there so the AFM or Maf could sense all the air coming into the engine, now that you are using TPS and air temp for the calculations you can show off the six velocity stacks and also have the induction sound" my head is spinning a bit with all the possibilities.

[240260280]

I think the TPS and Air Temp alone would be too coarse for good a/f monitoring. Most cars have these with MAP or AFM and knock sensor along with the standard coolant temp.

[grannyknot]

Well this is a subject that I leave to guys that understand it but I'm pretty sure megasquirt has this algorithm that combines the TPS, air and coolant temp to form a map that allows multiple ITBs like mine to function properly.  Matt didn't seem to have any problem tuning the engine back in the summer. I'm probably not mentioning some other key sensor that ties it all together.

Jumped in today and started installing patches, bracing and working on the stitch welds.

[Namerow]

I'm always impressed by how fast and tidy you manage to work through these panel repair jobs!  Big thumbs up.

For humor value, I thought you might enjoy this picture that will illustrate how those pine cones manged to find their way into the car's fresh air ducts...

(This was a very hard-working squirrel!)

[siteunseen]

That is so very funny looking!  

That's a strong squirrell to get the battery out for more storage. 

[GGRIII]

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

That is so very funny looking!  

That's a strong squirrell to get the battery out for more storage. 

On my Z I took a 5 gallon bucket of acorns out of the rails that support the front strut towers.  I don't want to know what the metal inside there looks like after all of that mouse wizz...  

 

[grannyknot]

9 hours ago, Namerow said:

I'm always impressed by how fast and tidy you manage to work through these panel repair jobs!  Big thumbs up.

Thanks, but when you have no social life there's nothing else to do but work on your projects

1 hour ago, GGRIII said:

  I don't want to know what the metal inside there looks like after all of that mouse wizz...

Clean, rough, but clean. As soon as I get the body repairs done I have 3 cans of that green Eastwood internal frame sealer with the spray hose and I'm going to empty them into every sub frame and crevice I can find.

[GGRIII]

On 2/18/2017 at 7:02 PM, grannyknot said:

Thanks, but when you have no social life there's nothing else to do but work on your projects

Clean, rough, but clean. As soon as I get the body repairs done I have 3 cans of that green Eastwood internal frame sealer with the spray hose and I'm going to empty them into every sub frame and crevice I can find.

I did the same!  I still need to do that to a small rocker repair and quarter patch panel.  It looks like mother nature is going to cooperate this week - warmish temps here !