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Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z


grannyknot

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On 7/10/2017 at 8:13 PM, grannyknot said:

Thanks Jay, I appreciate it.

Maybe a real Ratsun this time,  Cliff has commissioned me to build him a Rat Rod out of this car but no money has shown up in my paypal account yet, that's strange.

$_27.JPG4.JPG

That would be a lot of fun, I have thought about it for years but I'm not as immortal as I use to be.

That's one heck of a sunroof! I have wondered with a targa-top or T-top S30 would be like.

 

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On 10/18/2014 at 6:03 PM, Zed Head said:

This guy did some really nice work with an S52. I have no idea what the BMW variations are, or mean.

rt260, BMW M Powered - S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z - HybridZ

I was looking back at some old inline 6 builds and see that the thread I linked above got Photobucket'ed big-time.  Sad.

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So how is this for a rookie move? DSCN1700.JPGNo wonder the car is a little squirrely at high speed!  Can't find anyone else to take the blame:blush:  But driving with lower control arms reversed feels pretty normal up until about 60 mph then it just gets worst from there all the way up.  I thought the problem was that I needed more downforce but it didn't help much when I added some, then I started looking at alignment again and was getting ready to install the g-force off set bushing kit when I noticed my rookie mistake. So I reversed the LCA's and installed the rear spoiler and now I can drive fast again and not smell the exhaust.

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10 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

So they didn't pick up on that while on the alignment rack?

You could probably adjust that out for toe, but everything else would be out of whack, right?

I haven't put it on an alignment rack yet I just did the toe in with jack stands and string and measured out from the rim of the wheel. There is so little that is adjustable I didn't think I would need it, but I'll take it to a real shop now and get some numbers.

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I agree (in that there is so little that's adjustable), that I did mine myself too. And I didn't even bother with string and jack stands. I had new tires and just measured the distance between treads at fore and aft of the front tires. Here's my thought process...

I can easily adjust the toe to something close to correct, and then I can then fiddle with the toe settings same on both sides until I get the steering wheel straight. After that, the car should go straight and the steering wheel should be positioned correctly. If the car handles well (which mine does), and the tire wear is acceptable and even (which mine is), I'm claiming victory.

What this method does NOT do is make you aware of any issues like what you had done with the bushings or issues with the rear wheels. Those issues would show themselves in handling issues (like your squirrely feeling), or badly worn uneven tires. And the problem with counting on tire wear to illustrate an issue is that by the time you know, it's too late.

So, I got lucky... My car drives straight, handles well, and the tires are wearing slowly and evenly. I don't know (or need to know) what's going on with the more complicated facets of the alignment. I don't know if my camber or caster is the same between sides. I don't know if my rear toes are the same. Doesn't matter. Might matter if I was driving on the track at the limits of handling, but I'm not. Goes straight, handles well, tires wear even and at a reasonable rate. Done.

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

51 minutes ago, RyanT67 said:

Still running great and loving it, Chris? 
 

Having a blast, are you going to the track day at Mosport next week? I'll be there, still trying to tweak the alignment.  I have been going to cruise nights and 2 cars shows per weekend. Had one of those show plates made up at a tuner show on the weekend,

DSCN1761.JPG

Took the car to an alignment shop just to get an idea where everything was sitting after all that surgery,

           Front

             Left                                Right                               Difference

Caster  -1.8*                            -2.9*                                 -1.1*

Camber -0.8*                          -1.0*                                -0.2*

Toe        0.0                              0.0                                     0.0

            Rear

           Left                                  Right                               Difference

Camber -1.0*                           -1.1*                                -0.1*

Toe        -0.40*                        -0.69*                              -0.29*

So I have to figure out what to do about the caster, need to study up on it.  Had it appraised and sent all the stuff to the classic car insurance and only then realized I had never put road insurance on it, just some fire/theft.  1000 kms of with no coverage, OppsROFL

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Here is the great John Coffey's recommended street setup.

image.png

 

 

Front
Toe: 1/16" to 3/32" in
Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred.
Caster: 4 to 6 positive. The actual number between 4 and 6 is not important, only that both sides are the same.

Rear
Toe: 1/16" in
Camber: 0 to 1 negative with 1 being preferred.
Track: Make sure the rear wheels track the front.

Edited by 240260280
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