Sorry, that 2nd picture is confusing because I hadn't threaded that side yet, the curved end side has 2 in" of threads, the bushing end has 5/8" of threads, is screwed into the coupling nut then welded. The curved side is male, the bushing side female.

Edited September 21, 20177 yr by grannyknot

Nice! I think I still have a set of Z32 tension rods around here somewhere that I had planned to modify like that, but I ended up selling the car before I finished the project.

I don't know what steel they used, but based on the finish, it doesn't look like a whole lot of fun to machine.

4 hours ago, 240260280 said:

Great solution!

Another way to skin the cat would be to cut a reverse thread into the other end to make a turnbuckle-like adjustable solution and forego the welding.

When I was with grannyknot in the garage and he was showing me this latest moderfication, I had mentioned that as well- but he brought up a good point. you could just loosen the nut on the bushing end and it will spin inside the bushing cup when it's being elongated or shortened. If it had a bracketed or cross bolted round bushing of some kind on both ends that required removal and refitting to adjust, then a turnbuckle would make more sense. I was thinking of my 88 Z31's tc rods and turnbuckles the whole time for some reason so it didn't dawn on me until he mentioned it.

you would end up with a deviation from any kind of bushing compression setting you had if you change the effective length of the tc rod... but you could get real close by estimating how many turns of the ratchet were made to loosen the bushing nut...

 

 

... or just use german torque specs (gootentite), since he has a german power-plant now. I hear he's even traded most of his JIS tools for that yucky cumbersome DIN stuff now. 

Edited September 21, 20177 yr by Careless

8 hours ago, 240260280 said:

Great solution!

Another way to skin the cat would be to cut a reverse thread into the other end to make a turnbuckle-like adjustable solution and forego the welding.

That was my first plan but with a turnbuckle you have 3 moving parts and 2 jamb nuts, this way there is 2 moving parts and 1 jamb nut. Just thought that less complicated = less chance of failure.

7 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I don't know what steel they used, but based on the finish, it doesn't look like a whole lot of fun to machine.

I guess these rods are forged, the metal is pretty grainy, could also just be my lousy technique

 

 

I decided not to make the LCA adjustable for camber but the crossmember instead, there isn't a lot of room to slot on the XM  so had to flatten the existing metal and add extra support. Changing camber is done by loosening the LCA pivot bolt nut and adjusting.

This is the stock positionLots of camber, not sure what this new position will work out to in degrees but I'm sure it will be plenty.

Edited September 24, 20177 yr by grannyknot

WOW that is ingenious!  Just like on modern cars but better implemented.

Thank you, but not from my brain, I only steal ideas

I have the engine back!!!  So a good used crankshaft (10,000miles) new bushings for the conrods and main bearings and new oil control rings. The 3 front oily cylinders were because of the oil control rings, they were buggered up. I'll post up some pics soon but I just got it back today.

I love your LCA adjustment solution. Just don't forget the crush sleeve that just fits snug on that bolt on the inside of the K-member so it has something to lock on.

Glad you found something with the front three cylinders too. Always good to have closure!!

Ditto.  They must have had an apprentice do the front 3 then the expert had enough and stepped in for the back 3.

 

I blame "the kid"

 

 

Now if you went the S20 way:

Edited October 21, 20177 yr by 240260280

Got all of the threads chased and a new coat of paint on the block, a lot of reassembly done today, will start on the cams tomorrow.

This is the exhaust EVO cam gear from the E30 M3, almost identical to the stock exhaust cam gear on my engine but it retards the opening and closing of the valves which is suppose to gain me another 22lbs of torque at 3000 rpm, I have been meaning to install one of these for years.

Here is the offending, evil oil pump shim firmly bent into position.