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Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z


grannyknot

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So all the conclusions I made in the last post on May 16th are all wrong, air is not a good substitute for brake fluid when testing

The Wilwood prop valve acted exactly as you would assume it would with each turn cutting off a bit more pressure until the minimum was reached.

- the first configuration was 15/16" MC straight through to the calipers with NO prop valve and I assume no vacuum booster assist as the engine was not running.  1200 psi pushing as hard as I could.

- the second configuration was with the stock 240z prop valve installed,  600 psi pushing as hard as I could.

- the third was with the Wilwood 260-12627 prop valve installed and the stock prop valve removed, you’ll notice that with the Wilwood prop valve installed with the valve wide open there is a 100 psi decrease in the total pressure down to 1100 psi from 1200 in the 1st video. 

wide open, 1100psi

1 turn closed, 1050psi

2 turns           950psi

3 turns           950psi

4 turns            875psi

5 turns            750psi

6 turns           750psi

7 turns          650psi

8 turns          600psi

9 turns          600psi

10 turns        575psi

10.5 turns     575psi

I took it out for a run with the prop valve turned all the way closed to 575psi and I that’s just about right.

I made some videos of the 3 tests and they are here if interested, https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/131534-wilwood-proportioning-valve/?tab=comments#comment-1221616

With the brakes mostly sorted and I should mention the braking action is fantastic, 2-3x better than the Toyota/Maxima combo, I started working on the fault codes?  There are a few ghost codes for things the ECU doesn't control anymore and will get a round to scrubbing those off but the Bank 1 O2 sensor is reading bad but it's brand new.

I'm going to install the used O2 sensor the engine came with to see if that makes a difference and the engine keeps wanting to stall when I come to a stop, that's only real problem at the moment.

My on-going hunt for more power is now over, the few times I have stepped on it, it has scared the crap out of me, the acceleration is insane in a car this light. Love it.

First pic, just a little hint of what's under the hood.

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Edited by grannyknot
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  • 1 year later...

So here we go again, Version 3.0

Actually this next version won't be much different from the last except it will have a good paint job this time.  When the car was was painted last time I was so excited to get it back that I over looked  a lot of flaws but with in a year it became obvious that the painter had cut many corners to save money.  So I'm stripping the car down right now and this winter I'll take it back down to bare steel and build it back up again.

The over paid painter assured me he epoxy primmered the whole car when the shell was bare metal the first time but I really doubt that with all the tiny rust bubbles popping up, I'll be sure to show all the gory details.

 

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  • 1 month later...

I have the car stripped and mounted on the rotisserie now, the interior mostly stripped out and have covered all the leather and roof with plastic and sealed up the openings with masking paper.   I removed all the paint from the engine bay and before any oxidation could start sprayed 2 coats of epoxy primmer.

So here's why the paint job failed, first off he applied filler straight on to the bare metal which I asked him not to do and he assured me he wouldn't.  But he didn't sand the bare metal or even wipe it down with solvent/cleaner, you can see in the pics the pencil marks I made circling some of the flaws before I sent the car up to him.  In one pic I have wiped the pencil mark off with a bit of solvent. In fact the only sanding the metal saw was when he burned through the primmer while sanding, then he sprayed basecoat colour straight on to the metal with no primmer followed by clearcoat.😲 I've never seen that one before.

The only good thing about the paint job is that it is so poor that it hasn't taken long the strip it off with a heat gun and scraper, I got half the car done today. Okay, that's it I won't mention the old paint job again, moving on.

The 2nd and 5th pics are the engine bay partially stripped of paint before the primer. The last pic you can see the colour coat straight on the metal with no primer under it.

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4 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I have the car stripped and mounted on the rotisserie now, the interior mostly stripped out and have covered all the leather and roof with plastic and sealed up the openings with masking paper.   I removed all the paint from the engine bay and before any oxidation could start sprayed 2 coats of epoxy primmer.

So here's why the paint job failed, first off he applied filler straight on to the bare metal which I asked him not to do and he assured me he wouldn't.  But he didn't sand the bare metal or even wipe it down with solvent/cleaner, you can see in the pics the pencil marks I made circling some of the flaws before I sent the car up to him.  In one pic I have wiped the pencil mark off with a bit of solvent. In fact the only sanding the metal saw was when he burned through the primmer while sanding, then he sprayed basecoat colour straight on to the metal with no primmer followed by clearcoat.😲 I've never seen that one before.

The only good thing about the paint job is that it is so poor that it hasn't taken long the strip it off with a heat gun and scraper, I got half the car done today. Okay, that's it I won't mention the old paint job again, moving on.

The 2nd and 5th pics are the engine bay partially stripped of paint before the primer. The last pic you can see the colour coat straight on the metal with no primer under it.

IMG_0043.JPGIMG_0048.JPGIMG_0054.JPGIMG_0052.JPGIMG_0053.JPGIMG_0060.JPGIMG_0064.JPGIMG_0055.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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It seems it's hard for some painters to un-learn what they've picked up in the insurance-driven collision repair business.

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