The other guy who has done this transplant, how did he work around this issue?

The other guy who has done this transplant, how did he work around this issue?

Ron T. had the option of different oil pan configurations to choose from and that engine, the s52,  was designed around a very different car. He also had to drop the crossmember down 1/2" using spacers,

I'm planning on dropping mine 3/4" and relocating the lower control arm pivot points and adding bump steer spacers to compensate.

Ron T. had to use an aftermarket engine management system because the BMW system was too intricately designed into the cars security system, I don't think I will have that problem as the Motronic1.1

ECU from the M6 is rudimentary (or so I have read) compared to the later systems.

 

I don't mean to sound like I know what I'm talking about when it comes to fuel injection systems because

I don't, even though fuel injection is in every other vehicle I own, it's just so darn reliable that I have never had to mess with before now.

Chris

Ok I was thinking it was the same engine. A good running EFI is nice and super reliable. That's what attracts me to ITB's

If you went to a dry sump, wouldn't there be a challenge of correct oil pressure rise needed to activate the Variable Valve Timing????

 

Dry sump is not tied to engine revs like a regular oil pump.  

 

Or is VVT centrifugally driven/triggered?

No VVT on this older engine.

1/2" thick steel plate drilled and tapped to hold the oil pan flat while cutting and welding, hopefully the sealing flange will still be flat when I take the pan off.

 

wow - serious surgery! it will be interesting to see the new config and how you get the shape to hold the right amount of oil.

i'm enjoying this thread - very cool.

 

btw, i'm sure  you've looked into this, but why not just hook up a megasquirt so you can set up your engine management and wire loom exactly the way you want and not deal with the legacy issues? 

Because if it involves a laptop, I'm an idiot. If I had been exposed to it as a kid I would be fine, but now,

forget it. I did mange to get the 123Ignition distributor programed, I was pretty proud of myself.

But engine management, that sounds a lot harder.

I took the mock up oil pan to my aluminum welding guy today and he said "no problem" so that is a big relief.

I should have it back in 2 weeks so that gives lots of time to catch up on stuff I have been neglecting.

The first pics are the mock up pan and then the test fitting in the engine bay, there may still be an interference with the steering rod u joint but it will be much easier to repair a notch that needs cutting out then it would be to try and build the notch in.

 

 

Are you gonna use the copper for the oil pickup or fab something out of aluminum? Are all the major oil pan issues solved?

I was going to have aluminum tube bent and welded in but now I'm thinking I might try the copper plumbing pieces, they fit perfectly, spin to allow adjustment and offer the mechanical advantage of the male/female fitting. I have ordered this kit, http://uniweld.com/en/productlisting/622/113/alloys/p4kd9s-detail

This solder is used in the HVAC industry so I'm sure it can handle anything that happens in an oil pan.

 

As I mentioned above I may still have to notch out the new pan for the steering shaft u joint and I will also have to find a new place for the dipstick to mount and figure out where the new min/max markings need to be for the dipstick.

The new position of the sump is about 1.5" lower then before so that should add about 2 litres oil capacity so that's nice.

 

Modifying the original pan and oil pump looks like it will cost about $550 which is a 1/3rd the cost of an auxiliary wet sump set up and 1/6th the cost of a dry sump.

It's also a lot more interesting to build, I love one offs

Edited July 4, 20159 yr by grannyknot

FYI: I have had bad luck with solder joints and cars. I made a copper sniffer tube for my O2 sensor that shoves in the tail pipe.

The solder joints have let go many times. The combination of heat and vibrations cause the soldered joints to come apart.

For your application inside the engine, I would recommend steel tube and tig welding it for peace of mind....and not pieces of engine (if the solder fails).

Edited July 4, 20159 yr by Blue