Captain Obvious Posted June 18, 2017 Share #481 Posted June 18, 2017 That's fantastic!! You must be so happy!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted June 18, 2017 Share #482 Posted June 18, 2017 You are a true craftZman. The PS must be a treat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted June 18, 2017 Author Share #483 Posted June 18, 2017 (edited) Before I forget I just want to say a big thanks to everyone that has supported and encouraged me through this build, it's so easy to loose focus but this thread and your replies has helped keep the goal in site, thank you for that. But she aint done yet, I took the car out for another test run this morning after completing some tweaks and got caught in a 5 min down pour of rain, first the instrument lights went then the D/S front signal and the running lights at the same time, then came the smell of something electrical burning, it lasted a couple seconds and then was gone. I turned off the the lights, the fan, the wipers and beetled home quickly. After checking all the fuses and connectors and not finding anything wrong I decided the melted mass of wires must be in the dash wiring... so Still didn't find anything wrong, then I noticed the green/red wire on the turn signal control had broken or burned off, luckily I have a set of spare set so changed that out and finding nothing else wrong re installed the dash. I'm sure this is what I smelt burning this morning, obviously this is the cause of the turn signal failure but I don't know if this could also be the cause of the marker/running light failure. The instrument lights I don't think is related and not much of a concern for me. I know there are a few of you out there that know this circuit inside out, I'm all ears. The socket/connectors for the turn signals at the front of the car were soaking wet when I pulled them apart but then those black covers aren't really suppose to keep them dry are they? Edited June 18, 2017 by grannyknot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted June 18, 2017 Share #484 Posted June 18, 2017 But what was the cause? I wouldn't think there was any water in there, so water intrusion at a light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted June 18, 2017 Share #485 Posted June 18, 2017 The wire breaking off at the solder joint is fairly common, I think. Not unknown anyway. My headlights wire did that. I ended up running the running lights and the headlights through relays to take the heat out of that switch. The cause for that, as I've seen it discussed is that the contacts get pitted and carboned up and get hot, hot enough to either melt that solder or cause it to fatigue after many heat cycles. Better check your tail lights. They share power with the instrument lights. No instrument lights means no tail lights on my 76 car. The fuse is probably blown. Looks like two problems, one is the overheating switch, and the other is the blown tail lights. The current from the shorted tail lights might have pushed the switch over the top before the fuse blew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share #486 Posted June 19, 2017 2 hours ago, Patcon said: But what was the cause? I wouldn't think there was any water in there, so water intrusion at a light? 1 hour ago, Zed Head said: The wire breaking off at the solder joint is fairly common, I think. Not unknown anyway. My headlights wire did that. I ended up running the running lights and the headlights through relays to take the heat out of that switch. The cause for that, as I've seen it discussed is that the contacts get pitted and carboned up and get hot, hot enough to either melt that solder or cause it to fatigue after many heat cycles. Better check your tail lights. They share power with the instrument lights. No instrument lights means no tail lights on my 76 car. The fuse is probably blown. Looks like two problems, one is the overheating switch, and the other is the blown tail lights. The current from the shorted tail lights might have pushed the switch over the top before the fuse blew. No fuses were blown, hazards lights work perfectly, could a lot of rain water temporarily bridge the terminals and cause a short? You know it may have nothing to do with the rain, could just be the signals switch haven't been used in 20 yrs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted June 19, 2017 Share #487 Posted June 19, 2017 (edited) I was thinking about the instrument lights. The 240Z wiring isn't quite the same as 280Z wiring though. Not sure how they did turn signals, or instrument lights for the 240Z. But the switch pitting and wearing, causing overheating, is just a design weakness that they carried all the way through the Z car years. Edit - most of the switches in my car worked more consistently after I sprayed CAIG Deoxit in to the internals and worked the switch. The inherently moist Z car interior isn't good for the switches. How is the dimmer switch for your headlights doing? Mine didn't work until I Deoxit'ed it. Bummer that you tore the whole interior out only to find that damaged switch on top of the steering column. Edited June 19, 2017 by Zed Head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share #488 Posted June 19, 2017 20 hours ago, Zed Head said: How is the dimmer switch for your headlights doing? I deleted the stock dimmer. I installed the spare signal switch today but something felt weird about the action so took it apart and the little ball bearing was missing so I cleaned up the old switch and re soldered the the wire back and installed it. Instrument lights and parking lights are now working again but the D/S front signal is still not working even though it blinks perfectly when the hazards are on. I also have the parking light relay set up from Zsonthebrain . Pretty sure the signal switch is still the problem, I'm going to stop by a bicycle repair shop tomorrow and see if they will sell me one 3mm ball bearing for the spare switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted June 20, 2017 Author Share #489 Posted June 20, 2017 Got it working, the right combination was the spare signal switch and a 1/8th" ball bearing, all lights and signals are working perfectly now. I'm thinking maybe the rain had nothing to do with the failure, at least I'm hoping the rain had nothing to do with it. I've never read about anyone else having their signal switch blow due to wet connectors at the front of the car. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanT67 Posted July 7, 2017 Share #490 Posted July 7, 2017 Any updates? Or have you been too busy enjoying driving it? Weather permitting, hope to see you at Zfest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share #491 Posted July 7, 2017 Took it down to Matt's shop about 10 days ago, he got the engine performing like it never did with the old Motronic ECU when it was in the M6, scared the crap out of myself on the way home, fastest car I have ever driven! Gets a little floaty at high speed so I may have to try a splitter and/or a rear spoiler, I should probably try a bit more toe in as well. The car has been up at Jody's all week getting the wet sanding/buffing done, I will be at Zfest rain or shine, see you there. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted July 7, 2017 Share #492 Posted July 7, 2017 I don't doubt it's quick. What version of the S38 would have come in a Canadian M6? How much power is it supposed to make? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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