Thermostat Seat?

[whatfloorboards]

While installing a new thermostat on my 1973 240Z, I snapped

one of the two bolts that secure the water outlet. Theres a good half inch of bolt flush in the base.

Can anyone offer me advice on this? I'm unable to get the part through any of the local auto parts shops.

Thanks for your time.

-Gary

[Henry the Kid]

Originally posted by whatfloorboards

While installing a new thermostat on my 1973 240Z, I snapped

one of the two bolts that secure the water outlet. Theres a good half inch of bolt flush in the base.

Can anyone offer me advice on this? I'm unable to get the part through any of the local auto parts shops.

Thanks for your time.

-Gary

Hi Gary, too bad about the bolt but you can fix it. sounds like you'll have to use an "easy-out". you drill a hole straight down the shank of the broken bolt about halfway down. then tap the "easy-out" firmly in the drilled hole. the easy-out has flutes that grab the broken bolt while you turn it counter-clockwise. most of the time it comes out, you may have to tap the easy-out back in a couple of times. turn it slowly and delibratley. if it gets stuborn on you, heat up the out side of the outlet around the broken bolt. if it turns into a disaster (probably won't) youll have to drill the whole works out, re-tap and go to the next size bolt.

the easy-out kit which includes the correct size drill for your size bolt can be kind of expensive if you cant get it from a friend.

good luck

-H

[Daniel]

If you put teflon tape on those bolts you won't have to suffer that grief next time.

[PapaZ]

I hear you on broken bolts. The easy out is a good attempt but take your time in doing it. Soak the surrounding broken bolt with a good penetrating oil as well before doing so.

In my restoration modification project (71 240Z) every bolt that has come out I've done the following. Chase the internal threads of the hole with a tap and also chase the external threads on the bolts I pulled out with a dye. Upon re-installation, I applyed Anti-Seize around the bolt threads so that will keep any oxydation and rust from forming and will make it easier to remove at a later time if rewuired. Torque down the bolt as required after.

good luck

[whatfloorboards]

Update...

Well I took off the thermostat thing and took it to "Fuch's" (a machine shop across the border in wisconsin)

They got the bolt out for me for $15.00, and I was very happy

with their work. I then went to Ace Hardware and bought some extra strength bolts the same length as all my old ones. Eagerly I installed all the bolts tight, then I went around giving them a finall tug and to my horror they all became loose again! I had bought the wrong thread and stripped them! Arg... at least I'll never make that mistake again. I was too excited and in a hurry to get my Z going.

So now I parked my 240 next to my shed. This 17 year old mechanic named Tanya told me aluminum heads don't hold up being re-threaded, and that I should just get a new head.

What do you guys think, any ideas on cost?

I would have to go the econo route.

-Gary

1977 GMC

Still asking- what floorboards?

[Mike]

Well, your mistake was buying the extra strength bolts. Those aren't necessary on an aluminum head. The aluminum is a lot softer metal. And, you over-torqued the bolt.

Take a look at a manual and try to find the right torque setting for that particular bolt. In fact, someone here might be able to help you out.

Anyone got the torque setting for this application?

As far as re-threading it, you should be in good shape with the aluminum head. Just make sure you get a good set of tools and take it slow. Also take care not to get metal shavings into your engine.

[kmack]

You can re-thread the hole even in an aluminum head without worry. The best way is use a "Heli-coil" system. The kit comes with a larger dia. drill bit and thread tap, and the a set of coils to the size thread you are replacing.

You drill out the old threads, then tap new threads and insert the coil. In some cases the coil insert is actually stronger than the original threads were. These kits can be found at just about any bolt and screw shop or a compitent tool supplier.

Check out:

www.newmantools.com

for a little more info.

Kmack

[whatfloorboards]

Well, I can't believe its already been a year since I pushed my Z back behind the shed. Talk about procrastination.

Frustrated with my van that just broke down for the second time in a month- I finally went out and got the Heli-Coil kit from my local Napa Autoparts ($32.00) - I drilled out the old bolts that I had snapped using a cement drill bit, then used the kit to install the new threads.

I checked the oil and it still was in 'operable' range, I added a fresh quart to lube her up a little. I installed my new battery I picked up from wal-mart for $29.00, sprayed a little starter fluid in the carb and within 15 seconds my muflerless Z was growling again.

This car amazes me. My neighbors were pretty suprised too.

For sweetest day I'll be giving her a tuneup.

Driving will become an adventure again. I can't wait to be out avoiding roadkill! (they always tend to hitch a ride under the passenger side where the floor hangs down the most)

Thanks to everyone for sharing their wisdom and past experiences to help in my zituation! If you guys come to

illinois- the beer is on me.