So it looks like I am going to replace my valve seals, I do not own a spring compressor tool and from what I can find the  KD 3087 is no longer sold. Has anyone used any of these types (the style more so than the brand) and if so which one works best?
 

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=203&division=1&category=6

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=49&division=1&category=6

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=645&division=1&category=6

Thanks
Dan

It's not like I've done a lot of it, but I've used the third variety and it worked great:

 

I think the second version works too and may be a little faster to use because you don't have to screw and unscrew it to compress the spring, but if you're not going to be doing a lot of these, it might not be worth the additional cost?

 

What say ye with all the engine rebuilding experience?
 

The KD tool mentioned by the op is my favorite and what I use most often. Here is one on ebay- different company and comes from UK.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VS168-SEALEY-VALVE-SPRING-COMPRESSOR-LEVER-TYPE-OHV-OHC-BRAND-NEW-SEALEY-TOOL-/360967770738?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item540b5b1272

that sealey tool is exactly what i have - works great. the little bolts at the end of the handle allow you to set the handle at different angles, which is helpful as well.

 

not sure if you've done this before, if not - a few tips:

 

• before you do anything, even before you take off the mousetrap springs, stuff the "chasm of doom" (timing chain/front cover recess) with rags to prevent making this a looong job
• you will need to fill the chamber with some rope with the piston at tdc in order to keep the valve from falling in and to have something to push on to break the stuck collets free (the little keepers at the top of the valve stem). if the collets are really stuck, you will have to cram the rope in hard or the valve will just go down with the spring. putting the car in gear keeps the piston from pushing down as well.
• if the collets are stuck to the spring washer (like mine were), when you compress the spring they have a tendency to pop free and fly, never to be found - use a strong magnet to hang on to them as you compress the spring. it's even possible for one of the collets to hit you smack between the eyes with a great deal of force. don't ask me how i know this...
• absolutely use the little plastic valve stem condoms that come with the seals, otherwise you will cut/rip the top of hte seals when they go over the collet recess in the valve stem
• take your time and be sure the seals snap audibly onto the base with their spring clips engaged

 

it's an easy job once you get the hang of it, by the 3rd cylinder you'll be on a roll.

While I haven't personally used it, I've seen our techs use this style of tool. These things are amazing, you'll never get a valve spring off faster. It's especially good for on-car jobs. I've talked to them before about which one they like more but I don't recall right now and won't be at the shop for another week as I'm on vacation. The only negative I know of is that it'll likely mar your valve retainers.

 

Here's a demo of the aforementioned tool. The first time I saw one of these things in use, my jaw dropped. Like I said, it works best with the head on the car, using compressed air to keep the valves closed.

 

Here's a demo of the aforementioned tool.

 

Seriously? That did NOT just happen!

I have the 16750 valve tool and the Sealey. The 16750 is impossible to use with the cam shaft installed. The Sealey unit relies on the cam shaft as a lever pivot point. The only place where I've had problems with the Sealey is on the valve next to a cam tower where you can't engage both hooks.

Make sure u put a towel in the timing chain area to prevent parts falling off in there. Another thing to avoid stuck valve keeper is to make sure u rock the tool up and down and left to right with medium pressure to release the keeper from the retainer area. Then apply full pressure and take the keepers out with a magnet. Never allow one keeper to remain inside the retainer as it can be a projectile if u remove the tool to readjust angle or whatever. Instead u should get a pick to move the keeper around until u can grab it with ur magnet. It's tedious but I did the job in a couple hours first time ever working on this type of valvetrain. Goodluck and ask questions.

Awesome guys, Thanks for the tips and feedback.
LeonV: Does it damage the retainers or just put a mark in them?

Seriously? That did NOT just happen!

 

That's exactly what I said! I've been doing it wrong this whole time!

 

Awesome guys, Thanks for the tips and feedback.

LeonV: Does it damage the retainers or just put a mark in them?

 

It just leaves a mark. The guys use these tools on 8000 RPM Evos, you will have nothing to worry about.

 

Good reminder, it'll make a nice addition to my Christmas list.

Thanks
Looks like it will make my Christmas/Birthday list as well.