Fuel Tank- Worth Saving?

[240ZRamona]

Things are rolling pretty quickly with my 72 240z restoration. I purchased it three weeks ago, and I've been hitting it hard trying to take advantage of the abnormally warm winter weather and complete as much mechanical progress as possible. The vehicle has a small gas tank (that is hooked up) that the p/o put in the hatch area, and threw in the original gas tank in the back for me when I purchased it. Today I took a closer look at it. I've seen numerous opinions here- take it apart and sandblast it and then weld it back together, have it acid dipped, or replace. From Marine Clean and POR 15 kits, I've looked at a lot of options. My only two options are to buy another one, or try to repair (no acid dipping that is within 3 hours.) Question is... is it salvageable? Any advice is appreciated!

[siteunseen]

I've done 2 that make that one look like New Old Stock.  It looks very useable to me but I can't see any pin holes that may need welding up?  A gallon of muriatic acid and some tank liner would make the inside new again.  You'll need to replace all the the evap tank hoses while you're at it.  I did a 240 tank a couple of months ago and cost less than $100 and was able to do it in one nice Saturday.  Then I let the tank liner cure for a week while I was redoing the hoses and put it all back together the following Saturday.

 

Here's some pictures and the new fuel sending unit from my local Nissan dealer that was only $42 bucks plus a new O ring so about $45 added to the $100 for hoses and clamps and the quart of Red Kote tank liner.

 

[siteunseen]

I found my thread, disregard all the shoe talk, we had some laughs on that. 

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49439-developing-story/

 

here's where I first got the confidence to try it myself, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

 

If you need any help just let me know, I've learned some helpful tips like using a leaf blower to dry it out and using the old sending unit to cover that hole while you are sloshing everything around.  Baking soda from the Dollar Store and 4 or 5 five gallon buckets etc.

 

Cliff

[240ZRamona]

Cliff,

 

 Thanks for the confidence! I just didn't know if it was too far gone and I didn't want to put the effort in to only have to replace. I think I'll try my hand at it first. There are no pinholes that I'm seeing but I'll double check today.

 

Out of curiosity... I noticed you were using acetone- have you had any luck with removing rusted on bolts with that, or a solution of that? It seems like everything I touch is seized beyond belief, PB blaster isn't cutting it and I'm ending up getting frustrated and torching everything  

 

Thanks,

 

Kirsten

[S30Driver]

Kano's Kroil is the best penetrating oil I have used.

Some have used acetone / transmission fluid in a 50 50 mix with good results.

[Jeff G 78]

From the pics, it looks like a good tank to restore.  I've brought back tanks that looked like they were salvaged from the Titanic.

[siteunseen]

I use acetone and ATF 50/50 mix in a spray bottle, it works great for me and is inexpensive so you can really soak whatever you're working on.  If you'll spray it down real well the night before it almost always works.  A quart of each has lasted me 3 years and still counting.  Sometimes a good wrap with a hammer will loosen things up so the penetration can work sooner.  I've even tightened stuck nuts a little then backed off of them, I think that's nutty sounding but I swear it helps.  Oh yeah, don't forget about using a wire brush on the exposed threads too.  Also an impact wrench or a drill dialed down will move stuff a little and that's all the acetone & ATF mixture needs to get in there and work.  Put a box of band aids close by.  I keep 4 in my wallet. 

 

I use acetone after the baking soda and water rinse.  It dissipates moisture and gives you an extra few minutes before flash rust appears inside the tank before you pour the liner in.  Read over this if you're thinking of doing it.  It'll help understand the steps you have to do.  They are very simple you just need to be prepared, it's kinda time sensitive.  That acid will etch it down to bare steel which will lightly rust QUICK.

 

http://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf