Glad its an improvement. I want to do the same swap but first I need to sort out my BCDD issue I have right now.

Probably won't make anyone feel better, but after I fixed all of the leaks in to my cabin and got the inside well-dried (a nice hot summer), my back window fogging problems are dramatically reduced.  It just takes a small seep to allow enough moisture in to fog things up.  I had leaks up front and in the back.

 

For while though, I had an auto parts store heater/blower/defogger mounted on a board, pointed at the window. and wired in to the defrost grid power.  The circuit handled the load easily.  Noisy and took some work to keep it from sliding around but it did the job.

 

The other "fog" problem though was outside condensation on the cold hatch glass.  Who's got the rear wiper modification they want to share?

How about anti-fog by Rainex? Anyone try it?

I documented my swap here. 

 

datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-heater-blower-motor-replacement/

could you have a small heater core leak causing all this fogging of the windshield? I had the same problem, turned out to be a very small heater core leaking.

How about anti-fog by Rainex? Anyone try it?

It definitely works. I drive Motor Coaches for a living and they are a SOB for keeping the windshield clear. Especially when you load up 50 soaking wet kids from a Ski trip and humidity shoots to the moon inside the Bus. Most of of the drivers always carry a bottle of Rain-Ex Anti-Fog in their kit bag. Makes a huge difference.

 

In a jiffy, a few drops of dish washing detergent, wiped onto windshield, also works very well. Old Scuba divers trick.

 

A good glass cleaner helps as well. " Invisible Glass " is a very good glass cleaner, as is GM or AC Delco glass cleaner. Windex is crap. Leaves a lot of streaks.

I did this swap a few months back and my OE kicked the bucket.   Civic EF fan, although for some reason the cage fit in without trimming (Although it was TIGHT).   Good improvement in airflow, better yet, it works again!

I finally did this swap with an ebay honda fan, and glad I did it. Not TONs of difference for a 280, but certainly more air volume especially for defrost and center vent.  I had a lot of issues to deal with under the dash so Instead of lying on my back and eating whatever I dropped, I removed the dash. It made that part of the job very easy to do.  While I was there I replaced the leaking heater core, heater hoses, side air ducts, bulbs, re-sealed and painted the blower box.  Now the air even smells better   .

Been researching the blower motor swap and didn't see much recent info.  I have my dash out for repair and the blower motor out as well and thought I'd go ahead and swap.  I'm guessing this is still the best swap but wanted to confirm.  Thanks for your input.

I don't recall any other substitute for the blower, but mine still works like a champ.  Also be sure to replace the foam seals on the heater box mode door and where the air duct connects to the center dash vents.  That will increase air flow dramatically.

7 hours ago, 72ZDave said:

Been researching the blower motor swap and didn't see much recent info.  I have my dash out for repair and the blower motor out as well and thought I'd go ahead and swap.  I'm guessing this is still the best swap but wanted to confirm.  Thanks for your input.

The real benefit to the Honda blower motor swap is not the motor, it's light plastic squirrel cage. It is a fraction of the weight of the stock steel fan, the motors are similar but the Honda unit blows harder because it doesn't have to spin up the weight of the stock fan.

I tried to find a way to install the plastic squirrel cage on the stock motor but couldn't find an easy safe way of doing it.

I've got a 240 blower (of unknown year) and a 77 280 blower here, and both of them have a plastic squirrel cage. I'm guessing the early 240's used a metal cage?