Gone all megajolt on us. 

 

I'm sure you'll take lots of pics. I've been considering such a mod, but I've still got bigger fish to fry.

steve,

 

i believe i actually read your hybridz thread but didn't realize it was you - did you drill holes in the back of your flywheel and mount the sensor through the front plate between the block & tranny? 

steve,

 

i believe i actually read your hybridz thread but didn't realize it was you - did you drill holes in the back of your flywheel and mount the sensor through the front plate between the block & tranny? 

 

Correct. You can do it yourself(drilling) and it's cheap and pretty much what all engines use now. Flywheel is  very stable. 

a little progress over the last couple days - stripped the pan (an hour w/the wire wheel and more w/hand abrasives), straightened the dimpled flange & painted, stripped a bunch of misc. brackets & painted. picked up the block from autosport seattle - tanked, deck surfaced, bores honed. ugly on the outside but real purdy on the inside. spent about 1 1/2 hrs cleaning it off using questionable safety practices - mounted my wire wheel on the angle grinder and went at it hell bent for shiny metal. by the time i was done i felt like i'd mixed it up w/a porcupine as i picked countless wire bristles out of my clothes and flesh... all in the name of progress. 2 coats of POR engine block paint and she don't look half bad.

 

pan in process & done:

  

 

misc bits:

 

 

block transformation:

   

Oh no-another red block in a Z :-o

gotta keep up w/the pack, eh? truth be told, i've had the paint for quite some time and you beat me to the punch on the post!

 

can't wait to start putting this lump back together.

 

this came as well

I still love the red, don't care how many blocks end up that color. A wire wheel probably rated for 6000 rpm on a 10,000 rpm grinder will do that to you. As long as no one lost an eye its all good. I have the same wide band and it seems to work pretty good, except I need a new o2 sensor

Red block here too.  

 

 

 

Great to see your project coming together nicely!

Some interesting innovations that will work out great.

 

Glad you went with Autosport for the shop work, Brad is a great guy.

waiting for new clutch/flywheel to arrive (went w/a 240mm setup) so it can be balanced along w/the crank and the flywheel lightened. was supposed to arrive tuesday last week but still in transit... meanwhile the head is getting cc'd and surfaced shaved for a 9.75:1 cr. in the meantime i'm cleaning up parts and getting ready for assembly once all the internals are back. bought a melling expansion plug kit and discovered it was short 2 plugs, so couldn't finish that up either.

 

ordered some brad penn assembly lube and break-in oil - looking forward to being able to use them...

 

the front cover is a pretty rough casting - the inside is actually nicer than the outside, so it didn't polish up that well. looks better than it did though.

finished re-building the su's following the detailed info on the "just su's" video - new nozzles & sm needles all set up. these carbs have got to be the simplest think on the planet compared to the 4-barrel chevy stuff i've worked on. the trickiest part was setting the float levels, but even that was pretty straightforward. while i was at it, i beveled & polished the pistons and trimmed the butterfly screws to get 'em out of the air stream. then just for fun i hit the float bowls & linkage w/the buffer wheel to make 'em shine a little. 

 

i ordered a firewall grommet for the choke cables and when that arrives i'll put the su's on my current engine (along w/the low-pressure fuel pump) and do some initial tuning and a butt-dyno comparison w/the efi. 

 

 

butterfly bolt trim:

 

 

piston bevel:

 

 

all done:

 

Still looks good though. Are you going to protect it with something?