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Ashtray Re-Do


gwri8

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And I'll throw my opinions into the mix with the ashtray stuff....

 

I'm no paint expert, but I would expect powder coat would be the most durable (and yes, clear powder coat is not unusual). Catalyzed polyurethane would probably be the next most durable. Other solutions will be less durable, but anything is better than what you started with right?

 

SteveJ, Don't know if you've messed with the stuff before, but if you're using Evapo-Rust, make sure your parts are completely submerged. Don't try to do top half and then spin the part around a day later to get the other half. I've heard that bad things happen at the steel/chemical/air boundary.
 

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hmmm... so i guess this was part of a subtle smoking cessation campaign? or did they just start making skinnier cigarettes?

 

anyway, thanks for the measurements - i just may need to base my next car purchase on the ashtray... even tho i don't smoke!

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SteveJ, Don't know if you've messed with the stuff before, but if you're using Evapo-Rust, make sure your parts are completely submerged. Don't try to do top half and then spin the part around a day later to get the other half. I've heard that bad things happen at the steel/chemical/air boundary.

 

Actually I didn't have any problems when I did that to a seat rail. I did submerge the entire ashtray, though. I have some containers in the garage dedicated to dunking.

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Actually I didn't have any problems when I did that to a seat rail. I did submerge the entire ashtray, though. I have some containers in the garage dedicated to dunking.

Yeah, I'm not surprised. I went back and re-read where I had seen that and the guy who had the problem left the part in half-submerged for days. Etched a line at the interface.

 

Theory is that the solution is water based and enables rust right at the interface, which is then removed by the solution as it occurs. So the part is converted from steel to rust to gone over and over right at the interface. But it appears that it doesn't occur quickly.

 

Sounds like if you spin it after a day, you'll be OK, but don't let your part sit half submerged for days?

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Yeah, I'm not surprised. I went back and re-read where I had seen that and the guy who had the problem left the part in half-submerged for days. Etched a line at the interface.

For something as big as a seat rail, I'd use the electrolytic rust removal method.EvapoRust is expensive and I only use it for small parts.

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Back when I was comparing the 240 and 280 trays, I didn't notice a difference in width:

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45678-ash-tray-trivia

I noticed depth, but not width. More ash tray trivia?  :)

I'll see if they're interchangeable between the 2 cars later today.  There looks to be an extra 1/4" on the sides though.

I'm seeing the body of the ashtray to be wider, not the lip.  They look the same in my picture

 

I was thinking about Geoff's comment on smaller smokes and remembered the first Pepsi/Coke 16oz resealable bottles with the styrofoam label.  You could slide the label down an inch or so and hit the bottom with your hand and make a loud "POP".  No wonder my Mom's so damn crazy, I drove her straight there. :P  

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