January 19, 201510 yr Author comment_462152 checked the schematic - my tach works intermitantly..... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-462152 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 19, 201510 yr comment_462153 Ok, its running... Switched the blk/wh to a different spade on the coil.... Bad connection? This car has pertrononix, so wiring is weird. Theres one blk/wht directly to coil, another to the bottom of ballast. Theres a red wire attached at bottom of ballast that leads to dizzy. Top of ballast connects to grn/white that goes to front of car?? Coil reads 12v when running.Since the wiring is non-stock, it's not clear where the blk/wh was originally. A schematic of your car's wiring as it is now would help. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-462153 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 19, 201510 yr Author comment_462154 now its not running again - pos coil is .6V in on position. checking the schematic, it looks like the pertronix is taking power from the line running into the ballast resistor. Here's the schematic Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-462154 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 19, 201510 yr comment_462155 Maybe the pertronix igniter failed Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-462155 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 19, 201510 yr Author comment_462157 pulled the steering cover and pulled the ignition switch plug - tested continuity: green/white - closed circuit - good BLack/white coil and ballast - shows resisitance for just a second then open line...... ?? broken wire? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-462157 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 25, 201510 yr Author comment_462456 OK, ran a lead directly from the battery to the blk/wht terminal on the ballast resistor - car runs. still not continuity between the b/w at the switch to the ballast terminal. So, i've got a bad line from the switch to the ballast - any ideas where that might be?? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-462456 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 25, 201510 yr comment_462457 Are you sure it's not the switch itself? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-462457 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 28, 201510 yr Author comment_462575 petty sure it isnt, there's no continuity between the b/w wire at the switch and the b/w wire at the ballast. I can run power directly to the b/w wire at the switch to test it tho. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-462575 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 2, 201510 yr Author comment_462773 pulled the b/w wire from the ignition switch, connected directly to battery - same issue car runs in start position but not run position, so its not the switch. OK, added a jumper (red) from ig switch to ballast and car runs fine. so i've definitely got a bad lead between the ig switch and the ballast resistor - any clues/hints/ideas where that might happen? Or does anyone know where the line splits? ( as a bonus there are two indentical b/w leads heading back from the coil! ) So, i know what the problem is, i just dont' know where the problem is! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-462773 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 4, 201510 yr comment_462946 Try to inspect the BW wire where it enters the harness and where it comes out. Could be a rodent chewed through it or corrosion or maybe just melted in the steering column. Check continuity and resistance of of the suspect wire from the IGN Sw. to the ballast.. An easy way is to pull the Battery positive then measure the resistance between the new red wire and the BW wire at the IgN. SW. Also check to see if +12V is at pin 2 of the IGN. SW when in Run. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-462946 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 8, 201510 yr Author comment_463179 the switch is getting power - it runs in "start" position and also when i connect the red jumper below. i've checked switch to ballast - no continuity. cant see anything wrong with b/w wire, but i cant see most of it. anybody know which fuse b/w wire connects to at fusebox? i could check continuity there to narrow down the issue. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-463179 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 15, 201510 yr Author comment_463636 problem solved. The discontinuity was inside the spade connector at the ballast resistor! I cut the spade connector off to start tracking the B/W line back into the harness ( i untaped the whole front of the harness ), and i thought "hmm let me check continuity on the bare wire". Sure enough, there it was. I had checked that both wires ( one to the pertronix ) were tight, but somehow the current wasnt flowing into the spade. So, put a new spade connector on and voila........ no clue how that works. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50811-revs-but-wont-run/?&page=2#findComment-463636 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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