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My First S30 - '72


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Well, the bottom of the oil pan has a puncture (put oil in to do a compression test). And it's facing outwards. Not a good sign. Once I can pull it into the garage, then I'll know what I'm looking at. Plus, it seems power isn't getting to the dash. It's going to be one headache after another. Looks like I know what I'm going to end up doing. Sell a bunch of OE stuff, buy an RB, do a custom race dash, and a wire tuck. Assuming the engine hasn't gone to crap. So Montana Z, start saving because the good dash may be yours soon enough. Gonna tear more stuff apart.

Also, the starter works. And darn well at that. However, it's not catching anything. I don't know if it's throwing the gear out, the gear broke off, or if there isn't a flywheel. I'll keep updating this thead with what I find out. Either one of you need anything that I wouldn't need?

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Well, cam timing is good then. Thanks for the link!

Flywheel is there, all the teeth are good (starter and flywheel), but the gear on starter don't kick out. So a new starter is in order as well as a new oil pan (or I can have my friend weld it shut). Cylinders 3 and 4 are the same height, cylinders 2 and 5 are the same height, but cylinders 1 and 6 are not. Cylinder 1 is where I'd expect it to be but cylinder 6 is acting like it's maybe 7-11 degrees ATDC where as cylinder 1 is closer to 20 degrees ATDC. So $5 on a spun rod bearing for cylinder 1 and the crank being wore down. Which also would mean that valves got tapped. Thus meaning a new oil pump (and possibly sump), intake and exhaust valve, pistons, rods, and a crank (basically a bottom end rebuild). But if I have to go that far, might as well as deck the head some and do new valves all the way around. Gonna have to refrain myself from getting the exhaust ported too... I hate visiting the machinist. I always walk in with a set budget and double or triple it by the time I leave. What can I say, I love building for power. Which is why I need to get a running RB or I'll have a $5k bill. Haha.

And Montana Z, you'll realize I'm not one of the people who lose it when something bad happens. I have a bunch of stories that can speak to that. For example, I shredded a 4L60E in 15k miles with a built NA 3.1 SFI powering it. Making close to 200 whp and 240 ft lbs. The 60E has been known to withstand 30k miles at 450 ft lbs. All I did was laugh and limp home in 1st gear (I was doing a rolling burnout in 1st, so it was the only gear intact). Also, what would you be interested in paying? (you'd have to come and pick it up; to my doorstep it's just about 2 hours if you do 75-80)

I'm going to try to provide direct power to the ignition switch and see if  I can get the dash lights and functions to come on. If it works, then I just need to rewire a little bit (from ignition switch to battery and might as well do new grounds and terminals. I've got heaps of 6 gauge laying around so I just need new terminals (which I have, just gotta find).

 

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What are their dimensions and weight? If it's small enough, it would be ideal to use a flatrate box from USPS (cheaper shipping most likely) but may be light enough to use a bubble protected envelope. Let me know the metal gauge and size and I'll figure out the shipping cost and we can talk price from there (I like to be fair because it's all about respect).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, might as well update some on the project. Bought a bunch of wiring to go towards rewiring the dash and battery hookups. I've decided to go to the RB20DET route. Going to save me a bit of money in the end (not to mention gaining power and fuel economy). MontanaZ bought the nice dash as well as the valve cover and intake housing. I'm going to part out the engine and transmission (as well as accessories I will not need). So if there is anything you might like (dizzy, alternator, etc), PM me or comment in this thread.

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