Need Help Sourcing L24 Rods

[pittspeng@hotmail.com]

I've looked around a lot and there isn't much to choose from. I can go forged for $1500~, go Chinese for $400-500, or go through the Z store for $101 (ea). I want some quality rods (all new or in really good shape) but there isn't anything reasonable for my budget ($700 is where I want to top out at). I'm surprised Eagle doesn't make rods for the L24. I love their rods. I would go though the Z store but there isn't any actual information about the product itself. It's just listed as a connecting rod for the L24. So I'm assuming they are stock rods. I don't plan on building the engine for high horsepower, but if I'm tearing into the block, why not spend a little bit for rods that I know won't fail. Currently, my engine has a spun bearing and crank damage (cylinders 1 and 6 are at different heights by almost 3/4"). It's safe to assume that I'll need at least one new intake and exhaust valve. My machinist is closed today so I can't make a call to him to see if he can source the rods, unfortunately.

I've read extensive reviews about the forged rods from Max Speeding ($450~) on some of the MG forums. They have held up to their built engines for racing over in the UK. I haven't found a single bad review about them. Well there is one thing, not every mm of the surface is smooth. But the MG guys have said a couple seconds with a file and problem solved. They also noticed that the design is a cross between Crower and Pauter. I would prefer to go a better route, but at the same time, it is the best deal. Stronger than stock, yet affordable enough to not hesitate if they are the ideal option.

Anyone know of any rods that I could use in this engine while maintaining a near stock compression ratio (I will have the cylinders bored and honed out .020" over)? I've tried searching if other rods would work in the L24 (it's a 72 by the way with a stock block/head) but I keep coming up with threads on stroking the L28. If anyone has some good rods (10k miles or less) that they would be willing to part with for a good price, I'd be interested in making a deal.

If you have any other tips and suggestions, please let me know! I do realize I could find a L28ET and swap it for about the same as I'd pay to rebuild the block, but finding a running L28ET near me is a challenge at best (let alone for $1000~). I have access to a 240mm flywheel with a clutch and flywheel (from mid to late 80's nissan pickup and a 71B) that are almost new, but have been exposed to the weather for a few months (sanding should clear it right up right?).

Oh, and a V8 swap is out of the question. They are like gold around here. Any decent running SBC/SBF run $2000 complete and stock. Even the mid 90's Crown Vic's run for $1500 on a bad day. Gotta love where a early 00s Ford Ranger will get more offers than a new FRS.

I appreciate any help you guys can provide! Thanks!

[jonathanrussell]

Just my opinion but unless you are making a big jump in HP and max rpm (which it doesn't sound like you are), OR you are improving your rod stroke ratio with longer rods and shorter pin height custom pistons, OR your rods are damaged, I can't imagine replacing rods in an L24. L series rods are very strong and forged. There is some debate about rod bolts. Early L24 rods had 8mm and later had 9mm. Most desire the 9mm L24 rod. ARP rod bolts are available for either if you are concerned. There are some who aren't fans of the ARP rod bolts with L series rods because they are very tight when pressing in. The concern is that if you don't get the stud pressed all the way in the bolt could loosen under load. There is a lot written on this topic so you may want to search a bit. My personal decision was to use ARP bolts in my 9mm later L24 rods. Even if I had 8mm bolt rods, I would use ARP bolts and keep the rods. 

[pittspeng@hotmail.com]

The reason I need to replace the rods is because a bearing got spun. While the rods might appear fine (and most would be), the one with the spun bearing got banged around on the crank a lot. That's a lot of stress to place on a rod. While I could technically try to reuse it, there is no telling how long it would last.

[Diseazd]

I agree with Jonathan......stock rods are more than adequate for street driven Z's, as I believe are the Nissan rod bolts. There is usually plenty of used Datsun rods on EBay. If not, you can source a used set from zcarsource.com or some other supplier. Save your money for the head.....that's where things really happen.

[madkaw]

Wasting money buying aftermarket rods unless you are building a RACE motor. Find another used set and have your machinist work them-DONE!

With the money you spend on rods you might get forged pistons-now we're talking

[pittspeng@hotmail.com]

Never heard of zcarsource. Honestly. Never even ran into it in the past year when looking around for parts for my Z31. Diseazd, thank you! 6 new rods for just under $300 shipped.

Madkaw, I was looking at forged rods because the zstore didn't list any actual details about the rods they have.

[madkaw]

Umm, Datsun rods are forged ;-)

[Patcon]

Buy one rod and have your machinist magnaflux them for cracks, shot peen them and balance them and you will be money and quality ahead...

C