Zed Head Posted February 5, 2015 Share #13 Posted February 5, 2015 The brown is from the other pickup coil. Just insulate the end so it doesn't generate random sparks. Edit - forgot to say, you'll lose the 6 degrees of vacuum advance from the water temperature switch activation. That's another wire that will need to be insulated, I think it's powered with the key. What all of the wires and the extra pickup coil do is described in the Engine Electrical chapter. I did something similar a while ago. Wired a 1978 plug on to the 1976 connection terminal strip so that so that I could use a 1978 module. It's doable. Locate red and green, insulate and set aside the brown, determine which one is hot with the key on (it's connected to coil positive), and figure out which is coil negative (pretty sure it's blue). The colors at the coil and distributor are the same as at the module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 5, 2015 Share #14 Posted February 5, 2015 Hi Blue Streak, Im not sure what you intend to do with the 280ZX dizzy. Is the system complete or are you only using the dizzy for the pick-up and another TIU? I did a GM HEI mod to my 280Z 77. The TIU was playing up when it was warm. See link in post#11.I have changed my coil since then. Its now a petronix 45011 (45000volt 0.6Ohm) so the ballist resistor is back in the circuit (plate removed).It depends on which coil you are using if you need a ballist resistor or not. Here is a diagram on a 1978 which has not ballist resistor.If you need a diagram of a circuit I can make one np. GM_HEI_Mod_Rev2.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue_streak Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted February 5, 2015 Mine is acting up when warm as well. I was gonna keep my stock dizzy and just swap in the module. I'm using a MSD Blaster 2 coil.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 5, 2015 Share #16 Posted February 5, 2015 The msd blaster 2 (8202) with a ballist resistor will work fine. It has 0.7ohm which is about what the original GM units had. Thats if you go the GM module route. They say if you go to 1.5 ohm this module will loose its current limitjng ability because the resistance in the coil is too high.I have read threads about high rev problems and rdv limiting. The high ohm coil could be a factor causing this problem. I have not had any problems yet and the engine revs smoothly to 6000rpm.Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue_streak Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share #17 Posted February 6, 2015 Ok so this mod is not deleting the ballast resistor under the coil and it is using the wires that are currently attached to the stock moduleSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 6, 2015 Share #18 Posted February 6, 2015 Once you get started you'll find that it's really not too hard to get the wires right. Even with a complete diagram, you should always check your wires with a meter or test light, just to be sure. It's a bad feeling to watch smoke rising or see sparks when you decided to just take a chance and trust somebody else's write-up or memory.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 6, 2015 Share #19 Posted February 6, 2015 If you want I can make a schematic drawing of the 280Z 76 ignition system with HEI or ZX TIU. Others might also find it handy?Chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue_streak Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share #20 Posted February 7, 2015 That would be amazing thanks!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 7, 2015 Share #21 Posted February 7, 2015 I made a schematic from the black and white schematic on atlanticz (and Thanks to Wayne (wal280z) for the effort). It was a little hard to follow with my laptop screen so it might have some mistakes in colours etc. This is the two standard versions (FED en CAL) with no modifications.I prefer to keep it as original as possible, so I would modify the internals of the TIU, keeping all the original wiring in place. Feel free to comment and suggest any corrections. ChasTIC280Z1976_REV1.pdf 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue_streak Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share #22 Posted February 7, 2015 Sweet! That helps a lot actually thank you!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue_streak Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share #23 Posted February 8, 2015 Would this msd module work for this application?http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/Circle_Track/Road_Racing/83647_-_HEAT_HEI_Module.aspxSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted February 8, 2015 Share #24 Posted February 8, 2015 Yes. It should work. Its an aftermarket replacement for the 4-pin HEI module, but just looks a little different.The photo in the link shows 5 wires coming out of it. Its has a dedicated ground wire where the original style uses the mounting bolt for ground. I can't see any dimensions for it. Wonder if it will fit in the TIU box?It will work hotter dan the standard version. Pertronix make a similar version called the Flame Thrower IIhttp://pertronix.shptron.com/p/hei-performance-module-4-pinChas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Berk
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