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280Zx Matchbox On A 76 280Z Dizzy


Blue_streak

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The brown is from the other pickup coil.  Just insulate the end so it doesn't generate random sparks.

 

Edit - forgot to say, you'll lose the 6 degrees of vacuum advance from the water temperature switch activation.  That's another wire that will need to be insulated, I think it's powered with the key.  What all of the wires and the extra pickup coil do is described in the Engine Electrical chapter.

 

I did something similar a while ago.  Wired a 1978 plug on to the 1976 connection terminal strip so that so that I could use a 1978 module.  It's doable.  Locate red and green, insulate and set aside the brown, determine which one is hot with the key on (it's connected to coil positive), and figure out which is coil negative (pretty sure it's blue).  The colors at the coil and distributor are the same as at the module.

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Hi Blue Streak, Im not sure what you intend to do with the 280ZX dizzy. Is the system complete or are you only using the dizzy for the pick-up and another TIU?

 

I did a GM HEI mod to my 280Z 77. The TIU was playing up when it was warm. See link in post#11.

I have changed my coil since then. Its now a petronix 45011 (45000volt 0.6Ohm) so the ballist resistor is back in the circuit (plate removed).

It depends on which coil you are using if you need a ballist resistor or not.

 

Here is a diagram on a 1978 which has not ballist resistor.

If you need a diagram of a circuit I can make one np.

 

GM_HEI_Mod_Rev2.pdf

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The msd blaster 2 (8202) with a ballist resistor will work fine. It has 0.7ohm which is about what the original GM units had. Thats if you go the GM module route. They say if you go to 1.5 ohm this module will loose its current limitjng ability because the resistance in the coil is too high.

I have read threads about high rev problems and rdv limiting. The high ohm coil could be a factor causing this problem. I have not had any problems yet and the engine revs smoothly to 6000rpm.

Chas

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Once you get started you'll find that it's really not too hard to get the wires right.  Even with a complete diagram, you should always check your wires with a meter or test light, just to be sure.  It's a bad feeling to watch smoke rising or see sparks when you decided to just take a chance and trust somebody else's write-up or memory..  

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I made a schematic from the black and white schematic on atlanticz (and Thanks to Wayne (wal280z) for the effort).

 

It was a little hard to follow with my laptop screen so it might have some mistakes  in colours etc. This is the two standard versions (FED en CAL) with no modifications.

I prefer to keep it as original as possible, so I would modify the internals of the TIU, keeping all the original wiring in place.

 

Feel free to comment and suggest any corrections.

 

Chas

TIC280Z1976_REV1.pdf

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Yes. It should work. Its an aftermarket replacement for the 4-pin HEI module, but just looks a little different.

The photo in the link shows 5 wires coming out of it. Its has a dedicated ground wire where the original style uses the mounting bolt for ground. I can't see any dimensions for it. Wonder if it will fit in the TIU box?

It will work hotter dan the standard version. Pertronix make a similar version called the Flame Thrower II

http://pertronix.shptron.com/p/hei-performance-module-4-pin

Chas

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