1976 280Z Restoration Project

[Zed Head]

 No point in doing any structural straightening until the welding is done.

 

I think that this might be backward.  Don't forget that these are not "framed" cars.  They are big sheet metal boxes, kind of like an old lunch pail.  AKA monocoque or unibody.  Best to use the welding to hold or create the shape, not bend the welding after it's done.

[wheee!]

Anyone know the correct length for the driveshaft to be cut between the second generation 5 spd and the r200 diff? I have a 280zx driveshaft with the correct splines, but I realize it may be too long and need to be shortened to fit my 280Z

Sent from Canadia

[wheee!]

I think that this might be backward. Don't forget that these are not "framed" cars. They are big sheet metal boxes, kind of like an old lunch pail. AKA monocoque or unibody. Best to use the welding to hold or create the shape, not bend the welding after it's done.

So I should strip the car to the shell, take it to be straightened, THEN do the floor and frame repairs? Don't I risk twisting it when I cut it all apart? Even doing one side at a time?

Sent from Canadia

[Zed Head]

Not sure.  Many people have done what you're doing though.  Some say the box is fine without the floors, some say it's all wiggly and twisty.  There's probably a best method out there somewhere.  What I'm saying is that locking in a misalignment with new welded-in parts, then bending the box's new metal and welds to get the suspension aligned, could cause warps and bends in unwanted places.

 

My guess is that the best way to do it is in parallel.  At the same time.  Weld the parts in while controlling alignment.

 

Just bringing up a different perspective.  

[wheee!]

Is it possible to straighten it myself on the rotisserie then maybe? Like I said, I have all the measurements in the FSM...

 

When the floors are out, it should be fairly easy to pull and straighten with come-a-longs or a hydraulic ram.

[Patcon]

I have all the tools you are talking about but would never attempt to straighten my own car. The frame rack gives a great datum line to work off of and has zero flex. So when you pull or push against it the measurements are correct. The welds you put into the car to do floorboards or sheet metal repairs are harder than the original metal. It is probably best to get the car checked and straight then do one side at a time. Be sure to put the transmission crossmember in so the tunnel doesn't move on you. I commented on how I did my floor boards on another thread. When they were done they looked factory. At the moment I don't recall which thread and am too tired to figure it out...

C

[wheee!]

Good advice! Thank you!

Sent from Canadia

[wheee!]

Zedd Findings floor pans should be here in a week or so...

Sent from Canadia

[Zed Head]

The recommendation about the crossmember is good, but the later model Z's used rubber bushings on the member/body mounting points.  So it won't be rigid like an early 240Z would be.  False sense of security.  Still, you could tack in a brace or two, or drill a few holes to mount some strategic braces.

[Patcon]

Thanks Zed

Didn't know about the change...

Charles

[wheee!]

I had noticed the bushings too. My plan was to weld in a brace temporarily. Not concerned about tacking a brace in as the whole bottom of the car is being refinished....

[Pop's Z]

See hazmat thread.