1976 280Z Restoration Project

[takayuki]

I think the 280z drive shaft flange is square no? If so, you need to swap the companion flange from the 280z diff onto the 3.9 r200 diff. That's what I did for my car.

 

 

Also, if you are thinking about media blasting your car, you gotta be careful going too hard because it will heat and warp the sheet metal on your car.  My car had so much bondo and crap on it, they had to take the remaining material off by hand.

 

If I were to do my car again, I would get it acid dipped....

[Zed Head]

So you are saying the 280Z shaft I have (stock) should bolt up fine to the 3.90 R200 (round flange) and the late 5 Spd transmission? If so, you have made my day... I was not looking forward to shortening a 280ZX driveshaft!

Sorry I missed this.  Yes, it should if the 3.9 came from a 280ZX NA engine.  The turbo cars with the "Borg Warner" transmission, used the 300ZX bolt pattern I believe, which won't work, but the NA pattern will.  The spline pattern and size of the slip yoke (the part that fits the trans.) is the same for all NA transmissions, way up in to the 1990 cars (71C transmissions)..

 

As I said, I have both a square and round flange differential in my garage.  One 1976, one 1978.  I've had them both in my car with the same driveshaft.

[wheee!]

I think the 280z drive shaft flange is square no? If so, you need to swap the companion flange from the 280z diff onto the 3.9 r200 diff. That's what I did for my car.

 

 

Also, if you are thinking about media blasting your car, you gotta be careful going too hard because it will heat and warp the sheet metal on your car.  My car had so much bondo and crap on it, they had to take the remaining material off by hand.

 

If I were to do my car again, I would get it acid dipped....

 

I will check the companion flange. It may not be the same as your 260 though...

 

As for the blasting, I was thinking of doing soda blasting on sheet metal surfaces like hood and fenders and media (crushed glass etc) on more hidden structures like frame and engine bay.

 

Dipping is great, but I have strong fears that not all the solution would be removed from the vehicle and it would start to eat my paint after the car was finished. How do you prevent it from creeping out of seams etc? Can it be totally neutralized? Makes me nervous...

 

 

Sorry I missed this.  Yes, it should if the 3.9 came from a 280ZX NA engine.  The turbo cars with the "Borg Warner" transmission, used the 300ZX bolt pattern I believe, which won't work, but the NA pattern will.  The spline pattern and size of the slip yoke (the part that fits the trans.) is the same for all NA transmissions, way up in to the 1990 cars (71C transmissions)..

 

As I said, I have both a square and round flange differential in my garage.  One 1976, one 1978.  I've had them both in my car with the same driveshaft.

 

 

The 3.90 came from a NA 280ZX, correct.That is great news about the spline shaft! I have also heard that changing the flange is just a personal preference versus a necessity. The bolt pattern is the same.

 

Thanks for the input guys!

[Casey_z]

I have all the tools you are talking about but would never attempt to straighten my own car. The frame rack gives a great datum line to work off of and has zero flex. So when you pull or push against it the measurements are correct. The welds you put into the car to do floorboards or sheet metal repairs are harder than the original metal. It is probably best to get the car checked and straight then do one side at a time. Be sure to put the transmission crossmember in so the tunnel doesn't move on you. I commented on how I did my floor boards on another thread. When they were done they looked factory. At the moment I don't recall which thread and am too tired to figure it out...

C

This an old scool frame rack.

 

It gives you an idea of what is involved.

 

Casey

[wheee!]

Quick correction: engine was rebuilt in 92/93 by PO and his father. Changed it in original post too.

 

I'm hoping to get more details on what that entailed prior to my tearing it down.


Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Edited March 4, 2015 by wheee!

[wheee!]

Confirmed the build date today too. Apparently there was a change in the production run in 1976...

 

[wheee!]

Was disappointed to learn the remanufactured alternator was still an externally regulated version. Oh well. I will buy a new one with internal regulator.

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[HaZmatt]

I need to do this as well

[wheee!]

Just ordered EuroDats fuel and clutch line rubber insulator kit! These are getting harder to source, might as well get it now...

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[wheee!]

Bwah ha ha! A few whacks on the fuel pump and...

It lives!!

https://vimeo.com/122579457

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Edited March 18, 2015 by wheee!

[HaZmatt]

Very nice!

[wheee!]

No where on the same level as your first start video, but i sure feel better knowing the major mechanical systems are all functioning before teardown.

The only system not giving me a reading was temp sensor and I didn't get a chance to check the electrical connection. Car stayed at around 1700 rpm at idle so some minor issues there. Heater controls, clock, voltmeter, alternator, lights etc all worked. Wiper motor struggled to move but failed so it probably needs some love too. All in all I have a solid baseline now.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....