Take your time and make small welds. The inspection doors are thin and they will "oil can" badly if you feed too much heat into them.

There is these guys, they are just over the mountains from you and hard to beat the price.

 

Well that's weird, the forum won't let me post a link. I'll try typing it out,

hotrodlouvers.com   or Fergie's Custom Louvers

Edited August 18, 20159 yr by grannyknot

There is these guys, they are just over the mountains from you and hard to beat the price.

Well that's weird, the forum won't let me post a link. I'll try typing it out,

hotrodlouvers.com or Fergie's Custom Louvers

I'm heading to the Okanagan in a couple weeks too!

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

i agree w/getting them punched in - should be cheap and it will look nicer with so much less work. check around the custom body shops, i'd talk to the local rice-racer kids who have their cars lowered to near dragging and tailpipes big enough to fit their heads in, they'll know where to go. it's a pretty common piece of tooling.

The cost is negligible for punching them in really... $1.50 a louver!  It boils down to location and time. If he can do it while I'm down on vacation in couple weeks, I'll punch them in instead!

I'm not afraid of welding them in, but punching would be much better.

A little work on the horns today for a change of pace...

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Just realized how messed up my front crossmember/lower rad support really is....

 

The nose support is completely gone and the horn mounts non-existent. I am thinking I should find a donor crossmember to replace mine as mine is already bent up. The only real dented piece on the car.... I knew something was up based on the horn positions in this pic!

Edited August 24, 20159 yr by wheee!

Depends on what month your 76 is, but they changed the horn mounting position to a stud on the bumper shock. See here in photo.

I made new brackets for mine when I changed the bumpers.

My 9/'76 had the horns mounted to the bumper supports with a ground wire attached to the stud too.  Like Chas's photo.

 

Mine is an early model, 9/75 so I think it matches the position from Hazmatt's thread, along the crossmember.
 

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Edited August 24, 20159 yr by wheee!

I think they changed somewhere mid 1976. You have the early units with the mounting bracket with two bolts. The later version had a strip with one mounting bolt.

I took a photo of my spares. The photo has the 240Z type on the left and center. Later type on the right. The earlier 280Z would be similar to the 240Z but then bent at right angles so the horns are verticle.

Chas

Edited August 24, 20159 yr by EuroDat

You are exactly correct. I have a question Chas: do the horns have a paper gasket between both sides of the thin steel vibration plate? Mine were completely gone when I disassembled... just a corroded mess.

And can I just make new ones or do I have to replace them with a factory gasket?

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....