Many times I will put bolts and nuts back on the part after it is removed so you have the correct size and length in the correct location. On some parts this is not possible but on many it is...

I use phone/data wire to hold those bolts that thread into another part.

site, that's a good idea. I have miles of that stuff, it's cheaper then the masking tape I use and much easier to clean off after 2 yrs.

site, that's a good idea. I have miles of that stuff, it's cheaper then the masking tape I use and much easier to clean off after 2 yrs.

Thank you, I get one every now and then. 

 

Something I learned on the one I'm doing now, and I think someone else and I spoke about it in another thread, is to cut up small pieces of paper and write the contents on that then put it inside the baggie.  My Sharpie smeared on the baggies during the 280 rebuild, greasy hands caused me a lot of headache a few years ago.  I'm too cheap to buy the label type Ziplocs. 

 

Picked one of these up this morning. This will replace the fusible links. It will be relocated to the firewall as well. Looks like it should do the job just fine. I'll make sure to get the appropriate size ANL fuses too.

Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Good friend Taka Yuki passed along a brand new, unused RT front diff mount yesterday! His 260 has some exotic custom mount instead.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/taakahirano/media/260z%20restoration/DSC_0023_zpsf5a4wtva.jpg.html#/user/taakahirano/media/260z%20restoration/DSC_0023_zpsf5a4wtva.jpg.html?&_suid=1443796932278048328735376149356

 

I'll get this metal prepped and primed and stick it on the shelf for the reassembly!





Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Edited October 2, 20159 yr by wheee!

Aaah, the solution to the dreaded diff mount. Its an ingenious desig , but I have heard some people say getting these things in is up there with spindle pins. Some slip in with no problems and others fight and resist to the bitter end.

When I did mine not too long ago I had to use a block of wood and a jack to push it in to place.  Took a little time but got it in there.  With a spread of 9 years for the classic Z's and decades of life events for any car, there are bound to be instances where a part slips in to place on one car and and it a complete bear on others.  Spindle pins are a whole different animal so don't be scared of a little ole' diff mount   

Thanks for the heads up guys! I will test fit it when I get the diff out later this month.

Another good night.... I removed the steering column support/pedal box as well as the Fuel Injection harness. Also removed the flasher and hazard units that are most likely dead and will need replacing. It appears that the clutch cylinder was leaking into the firewall as the matting was destroyed and moist along with significant rust against the firewall and pedal box in that area. The clutch reservoir was also empty....

 

I take a few breaks from each task to do a little sandblasting too. I cleaned up the door and hatch hinges and scraped a few pounds of undercoating off the inside of the headlight buckets too... I am trying to put most things away clean and labeled rather than dirty and rusty. Should make it easier down the line.

Edited October 7, 20159 yr by wheee!

Modified the stock lower alternator mount to accept the GM 10SI 100A alternator.

Marked off at 1.78" for margin of error.



On the cold cut saw...





Ready for drilling out to 3/8ths...



Finished after another quick sandblast and final measurements....





 

Measurements...





And a solid coat of Zinc Mate until it's ready for paint with the block....



Thanks zKars!