1976 280Z Restoration Project

[wheee!]

The Captain and I need to get together for drinks.... the inner nerd in me is intrigued

[wheee!]

Get your old gas tank to these people & they will make it better than new: http://www.gastankrenu.com/

 

 

The problem is not restoring the finish or sealing the tank, it's bashing out the severe dents on the bottom and side. And for a reasonable price. Shipping a tank will cost me around $100 each way, plus the restore costs. That's why I am looking for a  relatively good tank to refinish myself. I can buy a restored tank online with sending unit for approx $600 US ($800 cdn) plus shipping my tank to them first and being deemed a suitable core (if not add another $400 US - $550 cdn).... You can see my issue here. I can use this tank, it just won't be pretty....

Or I have to deconstruct the tank and repair the metal.

[Mark Maras]

 I've not tried to pull spindle pins yet but I've had success removing corroded pins and bolts on other machinery. Along with the soaking but before heating I get some dry ice. Fortunately, the local Baskin & Robbins sells it. After heating the casting, chill the pin with ice. Wet ice will work but dry is better. Then use a  press or a factory adjusting tool (BFH) on it. I've found even if the pin won't move at first allow it to cool and continue soaking. The shrinkage from the ice seems to break the bond between the casting and the pin allowing penetrant to seep in. 

[wheee!]

There is no area of the pin exposed to chill.... the opnly option is heat to the sleeve so the pin can be "persuaded" to move ...

[charliekwin]

Regarding the tank dents: is it possible to pull them out with a slide hammer?  If you could get it looking 90% decent that way, some body filler could take care of the rest.

[wheee!]

That is my planned process if a new tank does not materialize. I may even cut the whole thing open!

[ksechler]

That is my planned process if a new tank does not materialize. I may even cut the whole thing open!

 

I'd weld a stud to the tank and pull the dent before I resorted to cutting.

[Consigli]

I'd weld a stud to the tank and pull the dent before I resorted to cutting.

You might even find a body shop that has a special device for doing that to body panels. 

[wheee!]

I'd weld a stud to the tank and pull the dent before I resorted to cutting.

 

 

You might even find a body shop that has a special device for doing that to body panels. 

 

 

I have such a tool . Cutting it open might make it easier to repair and restore as well... I will try pulling it if I have no options on a replacement unit. Failing a good pull, I will cut it open and restore it that way.

[Consigli]

I have such a tool . Cutting it open might make it easier to repair and restore as well... I will try pulling it if I have no options on a replacement unit. Failing a good pull, I will cut it open and restore it that way.

That should work good. My first car was a 1976 280Z. It was a nice car, until one night, after closing down a bar, a friend and I were doing some high G-force maneuvers and I launched it into a low earth orbit. After it landed on a curb, it was so bent, I had to sell it for salvage. 30 years later I found my 1978 280Z. That one gets treated like royalty!  

[Patcon]

Wheee

I wonder if a paintless dent guy could get the dent out for you. Either with some suction cups or some long curve picks . My second choice would be a stud welder and puller but make sure the take is well cleaned first. Blowing yourself up doesn't sound like much fun, met someone who did that once...

[Patcon]

CO

I am not that techy when it comes to this stuff. More seat of the pants sketch with a pencil kind of stuff. You know architectural degree versus engineering degree and all. I just sort of looked at the internal threads and thought those come really close to the exterior threads...

That's when you expect to hear someone say " Hey y'all watch dis..."