1976 280Z Restoration Project

[wheee!]

It might be a gamble but I don't have a lot of good inexpensive options to me.

[ksechler]

I, don't want to be discouraging, but that tank looks pretty rough.  Are you sure you can't do better?  

[wheee!]

Sounds like what my mother in law said to my wife....

[Mark Maras]

ZCarSource has the tank you need. Already reconditioned.They will need a viable core from you to recondition later. I would ask them if this tank is, in their definition, a "viable core" or maybe this one and your original one would be acceptable as a core. Enough good parts for them to reassemble one tank. It's also possible that you have other old unused spare parts that they value as cores. I'd contact them. Nothing to lose.

[wheee!]

If I was in the states, then I would definitely do that. Being 6 hours from the border and a local shipping (US) agent, the shipping alone to send a tank there and back would be 100's of dollars, plus the price of the tank, plus the extra assessed core charge as mine really is not viable. I am trying to stay under a couple hundred dollars for a replacement tank or I will just rebuild mine. So many other parts need money, I can't justify spending $5 or $600 US on a tank, especially at the current exchange rates.

[wheee!]

Slow progress on the underbody.....

 

and yes, I am getting better pictures on the real camera, this is just a cell phone quickie...

Edited December 14, 2015 by wheee!

[Patcon]

What color was the car originally, green or the lighter color?

[gwri8]

What color was the car originally, green or the lighter color?

Charles,   I've seen that lighter color before when I stripped mine to bare metal. I believe it is a primer for the body.

[wheee!]

I was a little surprised to see it myself as I did not expect the yellowish primer look. Not only that, it looks like it was a polished finish, almost clear coated.

I am torn as to whether I will need to go to bare metal or just light sand and then POR the bottom of the car. I plan on painting the bottom of the car 240 green as well, so the POR will just be a base coat, followed by a primer, then the 240 green. Maybe a clear coat to help keep the grime from sticking. Thoughts?

[gwri8]

I went to bare metal on mine just because I need to see what needed to be replaced. I knew it had at least one repaint on it and fiberglass and bondo work on the rockers, doglegs, wheel arches.  Glad I did, there were holes covered with fiberglass where my doglegs used to be and holes covered with bondo in the arches.  Also, the roof had been peeling with surface rust underneath.  It gave me the chance to take care of any little bit of rust I came across. Replaced the holes with solid metal and now I sleep a little better knowing it.

 

I personally think going to bare metal gives it a little cleaner finished look. Maybe it's just me but I think the lines look a little crisper and more defined with the extra paint gone. 

[Mark Maras]

 Been doing bodywork on mine. I've been starting with an angle grinder and a really "mean and nasty" twisty wire brush on the rusty spots. Then I go over the whole panel with it. It will not only remove most of the rust but will also uncover any rusted spots under the paint that haven't blistered yet. If you need to go bare steel, don't increase the pressure just leave it on the offending spot a little longer.  When satisfied that all rust and loose paint is gone, give it a very light coat of primer. Use a long sanding board with 80 grit to find the high spots. Deal with them, then a different color primer, sand with long board 180- 220 then fill. etc.

 This has been quite effective on most of my panels until I got to the cowl. I usually use the twisty wire brush to remove the paint an inch beyond any rust but the rust stains kept going. I used Citrustrip on it.

 The original paint and primer is very useful in leveling the panel and cheaper than primer. You can always take it to bare steel if it needs it.

[wheee!]

All good tips, thanks!