1976 280Z Restoration Project

[Mark Maras]

 As I recall, your floors came from Charlie. Looked on ZF's site to compare 240 and 280 pans. A lot of difference. I've only dealt with ZF 240 pans. Mine needed a lot of massaging on the tunnel side. The outboard side is vertical and welds to the rockers. They were too wide too. (better than too narrow) I fit mine from the inside. Seat mounts were out. I measured from the outboard side of the floor to the bottom of the inboard radius about every two inches. Drew a corresponding line on the new floor to match the orig bottom of the radius. Bending them to fit was a PITA. I bent them cold. If I EVER do it again I'll heat them with a flame. Pulled the overlaps together with sheet metal screws and started cutting both pieces at once. Got a good amount of it cut in place, some places had to be cut separately.

 That said 240 pans don't have the holes near the sides. To get the floors oriented in the proper location, I think you'll have to massage both sides.

[wheee!]

I think you're right Mark. I am just "cold" positioning from the outside bottom. If I drop them in from the inside, they will have to be cut and formed considerably on the drivers side of the trans tunnel.

[wheee!]

Prepping the stub axles for 5 bolt redrill...

[Zed Head]

What are you using for the work, and how?  A drill press maybe, with a template?  Or something more sophisticated?

I've heard that some of the older flanges can get out of true over time and use.  You might check run-out and fix it while they're off and the lugs are out.  Could save you future balance problems.  It can be especially problematic for disc brake swaps since they're more sensitive to run-out, if you're planning that in the long run.

[wheee!]

It will be run-out checked on a lathe for centre and true flatness, then centre marked for each new lug position with a true-centre punch, then milled on a milling machine...

[grannyknot]

Any chance you will be able to take some pics while it's being done? I have always thought about doing it .

[wheee!]

I will definitely try and get some pics for you!

[Captain Obvious]

I've seen a couple pics of 5 lug re-drills and they added metal for the fifth hole because it was too close to the edge.

Are you planning to add material, and if so, how?

[wheee!]

I was thinking I might. Same reason you mention and it would be before any resurfacing or milling.

As for how, it will be tricky to keep it balanced before and after milling.

[wheee!]

Procrastinating on the floor pans a little, waiting for some advice from Charlie.

Spent some time removing what looked like perfectly good seam sealer last night. Scraped away a large amount from around the trans tunnel and floor pans in the interior. OMG!! The hidden rust! Places that looked pristine were hiding more cancer under the seam sealer! If anyone is in doubt, REMOVE the seam sealer! Remove the rust, prep the metal and seal it again! Yeesh.

[wheee!]

For what it's worth, the seam sealer did do as designed and sealed the seams, it was where water had seeped in to the edges of the seam sealer and been trapped between the floor and seam sealer. These top sections of sealer peeled away easily and exposed the surface rot.

[Captain Obvious]

I nabbed this pic off the internets a few years ago. It's one of the Z car parts vendors five lug conversion axle mod. Unfortunately I don't remember which vendor it was from, but I'm sure someone here will recognize it. I had thought that they added material for just one lug, but looking at it again now, it appears they actually added material for TWO of the new hole locations:

Of course, the best option would be to use the completely new stub axles supplied by one of the other vendors (who's name I can't come up with either), but I know they're pricey.