1976 280Z Restoration Project

[wheee!]

3.0 ohms +/- .1 ohms across each.

[Zed Head]

You might consider attaching them to the fuel rail and rigging up a regulator and pump to check flow.  I've built a test rig myself and hesitate to recommend it because six injectors blowing vaporized gasoline, with exposed wires connected to a battery is scary.  But, with proper attention to the wind direction and how the power is switched, it can be safe.  You want all six injectors to flow the same, within a few percent.  Several of us have found that what we had did not do that.  I used small Coke bottles to collect the fuel  to minimize exposed vapor area.  I have pictures showing dramatic flow differences.  With all six injectors wired in series the math works out to protect the injectors from too much current.

[wheee!]

I will build a flow bench test rig at work. Results will be posted as soon as I have time to test them.

[wheee!]

I have a digital power supply with current limiter and incremental voltage control from 0-60 volts. Nice piece of kit. I will clean the injectors with brake clean first then use a mild solvent (isopropyl) to use as a fuel replacement. Each injector will be timed and measured individually for output. Possibly together too. I can parallel them and control the current etc.

[Zed Head]

Beats the hell out of my battery and six EV1 connectors.  Not too sure about brake clean though, or even carb clean.  The injector seals are made for gasoline.  The original brake cleaning fluid (the non-Green stuff) was perchloroethylene which is a potent solvent.  Might swell or damage the seals.  Some people even think that the added ethanol of today's fuel causes seal failure of old injectors.  I'd test them first then see if they need any cleaning.  Just me.  Hate to see the improvement operation causing problems.

I should say though that I'm not really sure how the guts of an injector are sealed.  It may not be an elastic seal so solvents may be irrelevant.  I've taken a few apart so now need to go look at what I found in there.  Can't remember right now.

Edited March 10, 2016 by Zed Head

[wheee!]

Good point.

[the_tool_man]

On ‎3‎/‎7‎/‎2016 at 3:08 PM, wheee! said:

Prepping the stub axles for 5 bolt redrill...

Newbie question...Why?  Wheel availability?  And what BCD will you choose?

[wheee!]

Installing big brake kit front and rear so I will need 15-16" wheels and I would also like more choice in wheel styles/offsets. Custom suspension from TTT will allow some camber and track adjustments.

My car will not be period correct anyway....

[wheee!]

Too busy to get pics of the injector testing. Sorry! I did clean them with a denatured alcohol and then tested them on a pressure rig. The results may be skewed as the pressure dropped with each injector test. I am not convinced there was any difference in volume/time per injector and they looked good. I will do another test when the car is assembled and the injectors can be tested ensemble with the harness and fuel pump/regulator.

[wheee!]

//Newbie question...Why?  Wheel availability?  And what BCD will you choose?//

Bcd will be stock Nissan 114.3mm (4.5")

[the_tool_man]

1 hour ago, wheee! said:

 

//Newbie question...Why?  Wheel availability?  And what BCD will you choose?//

Bcd will be stock Nissan 114.3mm (4.5")

Good choice for wheel availability.  5x114.3 is stock late model Ford Mustang, too.  But you probably already knew that.

[wheee!]

Really happy with how the injectors turned out. $50 at the wrecking yard, $30 for the rebuild kit and I have a nice set of low impedance 11mm o-ring injectors with stock output for my car! All I need now is the pallnet rail to set it all up and build the custom harness. All EV-1 connectors too, courtesy of the wrecking yard...

I will separate the FI lines from the engine harness and add a nice 12 pin waterproof quick disconnect clip against the firewall to help keep things neat!