December 18, 20168 yr comment_508355 Now how are you going to match up those AN fittings to the brass hose barbs or the steel fuel line? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508355 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 18, 20168 yr Author comment_508373 I have more AN Fittings on the way so that it will be perfectly assembled on the car. No barbs. The fuel line will feed from the firewall, under the fuel rail, up 180 degrees into the front of the rail, past the pressure gauge, out the rail, into the pressure regulator and back to the tank. All with AN 6 black and red fittings. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508373 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 18, 20168 yr Author comment_508378 I will also have a one way check valve after the fuel pump to keep fuel from draining back to the pump and tank. The line should always be primed up to the engine... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508378 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 18, 20168 yr comment_508380 Are you anticipating a bad valve in the pump? It should have a good check valve. My Airtex pump has worked fine for years. If you use an aftermarket FPR that's more likely to leak down. Probably mentioned that already, somewhere, maybe. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508380 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 18, 20168 yr Author comment_508383 Leakdown from the fpr is more my concern. If I place the check valve at the pump, it should hold the fuel in the line regardless. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508383 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 18, 20168 yr comment_508389 I see, like a column of fuel held above the valve. The problem is the loss of pressure. Heated fuel will vaporize and blow the liquid through the FRP. Then you're left with a half-full fuel system at zero pressure. I modified one of the Bosch adjustable FPR's by drilling a hole in the adjustment screw. It's the poor man's version of this. It holds pressure, like a Bosch part should. Got mine from eBay. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-2222 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508389 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 18, 20168 yr Author comment_508400 I will have a heat shield between the exhaust and intake/fuel rail so I hope it will stay cool enough when parked. I was thinking of dead heading the rail too but cycling fuel is cool fuel... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508400 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 19, 20168 yr Author comment_508411 Some quick pics of the pieces. I don't have all the fittings here yet, so just approximating the look with injectors and hose, new quick clips for the harness etc. I have a 12 pin connector kit to attach the fuel rail to the fuel injection harness. That should make moving the intake off the motor a lot easier. I will build a custom harness for the injectors. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508411 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 19, 20168 yr comment_508418 Looks great. I'm trying to decide my plumbing now. Not sure if I want to do all the 6an fancy stuff- but it looks cool. I have to run all new lines from the tank on my 71, so I'm starting from scratch. How many hours do you have in making that intake look that good?Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508418 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 19, 20168 yr Author comment_508419 Ughhh.... I would say over 40....I plan on cleaning it up really well, degreasing, pre-heating and off gassing, then powder coating it in the new Eastwood Chrome powder coat to protect it. I don't think I could ever polish it enough or properly to be happy... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508419 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 19, 20168 yr comment_508429 You did away with all your vacuum ports?Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508429 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 19, 20168 yr Author comment_508440 3 hours ago, madkaw said: You did away with all your vacuum ports? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile Nope! Just hid them!! The brake booster line faces the booster now and the two ports on the rear feed towards the firewall. I may block one off still and run a vacuum block on the firewall too... The old ports were TIG welded closed. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?&page=82#findComment-508440 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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