1976 280Z Restoration Project

[wheee!]

I have an air dryer system plus an air cleaner/drier at the gun. This was an issue of gun settings more than anything. It may also have been a small amount of gun contamination as I had just cleaned the gun top to bottom with mineral spirits (from the DTM epoxy work) then a complete wash down with water based paint gun cleaner ($50 a gallon!!!!). The gun was not completely dry possibly when I added the paint and it may have added to the issue. I expect the next test panel to look a lot better. Not that this one isn't colour correct, just not blem free!

[newtonhubcap]

Not sure what you air drier system is but I use La-Man 110 drier at the compressor and their Spg102 inline dryer. Very high quality and very about providing dry air.
Great project to follow.

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[Patcon]

Also remember when drying air, the discharge air temperature is really important. I have a large 3/4" coil of soft copper inside my cool shop to help lower the air temps before it gets to the first dryer. After that it runs 50' to a Sharpe three stage desiccant set up. Because of the venturi effect the air coming out of the gun can spit because the cool air can't hold the moisture. The further the gun is from the air compressor the better because it allows the air to cool. You have more pressure loss but at the pressures we need, flow is normally harder to achieve than pressure

@wheee!

When you talk about a filter cup. What do you mean? I have filter funnels I strain all my product through. They give them to me at Finishmasters. Also with the little tip you will need to be extra diligent about contaminants

[wheee!]

This thread is getting unwieldy large lol. All the info on the dryer is back in the thread somewhere... it's a basic system from Princess Auto. There is a 50' hose from the compressor to the drier, then another 50' hose to the gun. Couple of pictures of the cup system with filters and the drier.

 

[Patcon]

So you are using a disposable cup system? I would like to go to that at some point. Why did you use mineral spirits instead of lacquer thinner for the epoxy clean up?

I assume that drier has desiccant in it? When it turns pink, empty the beads out onto a cookie sheet in the oven at 200d F until they're deep blue then it's ready to reuse

[wheee!]

So you are using a disposable cup system? I would like to go to that at some point. Why did you use mineral spirits instead of lacquer thinner for the epoxy clean up?
I assume that drier has desiccant in it? When it turns pink, empty the beads out onto a cookie sheet in the oven at 200d F until they're deep blue then it's ready to reuse

The cup system works amazing. You can spray upside down due to the enclosed collapsible cup system.
Brain fart... I meant lacquer thinner.
The drier has desiccant pellets that I replace monthly. Cook the old ones and then recycle. I have three sets of pellets. Mine are white. Size of tater tots .

[Patcon]

24 minutes ago, wheee! said:

The cup system works amazing. You can spray upside down due to the enclosed collapsible cup system.

That's what I've heard and really one of the biggest issues I have with a standard cup. Not to mention the easier clean up

[David F]

What did you thin the water based paint with?  Should only be thinned with distilled water.  I have limited experience spraying water base coat, but recall using 1.3mm tip HVLP gun with 10psi pressure at the tip (30 at gun).  This setup yielded satisfactory results.

Edited June 23, 2017 by David F

[wheee!]

Pre-thinned by the supply shop. No mixing required. Your gun setup sounds exactly like mine is now!

[David F]

OK, make sure you have thrown away the cup filter in the gun...never use it.  Make sure the gun is properly clean and spray some water through it to clear any "left over" solvents/reducers.  Only fill the cup through a fine mesh paper strainer.  Possibly the paint still needs to be reduced/thinned with water so the paint runs easily off the mixing stick in a 1/8" diameter stream or so.  Test spray (for pattern, volume, trash, etc.) on cardboard or something other than your freshly prepped panel...no fun re-prepping the panel.  Just curious, why are you using water based base coat?

Edited June 23, 2017 by David F

[wheee!]

Water base lays metallic better, is harder, and covers better than regular paint. It also does not have off-gassing of the base once the water evaporates in a few minutes. That means less imperfections a month or two later once the clear coat is on. It is prone to runs and sags if the gun is not set up right though. It also meets or exceeds the VOC requirements for most areas. Thought I would start with the product that will be probably the only one available later for repairs if necessary.

 

[Patcon]

Is your base coat catalyzed? I don't catalyze my base coat but have to top coat with in 24 hrs