1976 280Z Restoration Project

[wheee!]

I don't believe their is a "window" for the topcoat with the water based paint.

[newtonhubcap]

I know this thread long and great but I was reading through it again that raised a question. Being new at actually restoring a z car then was some discussion that alluded to sheet metal parts (fenders) available from Nissan in Canada. Is that correct?

Back to focus on the current thread but a simple yes or no would appreciated.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[sweatybetty]

11 hours ago, wheee! said:

I don't believe their is a "window" for the topcoat with the water based paint.

i would think that you would want to topcoat asap just to avoid any contaminants (dust etc) from getting on the base

[wheee!]

I know this thread long and great but I was reading through it again that raised a question. Being new at actually restoring a z car then was some discussion that alluded to sheet metal parts (fenders) available from Nissan in Canada. Is that correct?

Back to focus on the current thread but a simple yes or no would appreciated.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yes. Many parts including fenders are (were) available when I ordered one two years ago. Canada for some reason has more items than the US... I ordered new fender emblems for example for under $50 each!

[wheee!]

i would think that you would want to topcoat asap just to avoid any contaminants (dust etc) from getting on the base

I agree. This particular situation with the test fender is merely for colour, not quality so I am not too concerned. The real parts and chassis will be all done in the flash times for that reason.

[wheee!]

Couldn't resist...

[wheee!]

Sprayed the remaining three colours last night. Got the gun pressure dialled in and used the 3M PPS cups like I should have the first time. Paint went on smooth and blem free like expected. Painted three coats plus a fan coat at the end. Let the paint flash dry on each between coats. Wiped the panel down and shot two passes of lacquer clear coat with a 15 minute flash time between each. Will post more pics in sunlight when I get a chance. The clear needs sanding and buffing too. I will do this for practice and also to make the colours pop the most. Clear is still wet in these pics.

[zKars]

I'm liking this, 

For what it's worth, the green on the nose/front of the fender is the "best". The dark one next.

Just say NO to anything turquiosy...

[wheee!]

30 minutes ago, zKars said:

I'm liking this, 

For what it's worth, the green on the nose/front of the fender is the "best". The dark one next.

Just say NO to anything turquiosy...

Thanks for the feedback Jim!

I agree... the nose colour is very attractive. The original 240 green is a close second. However, the wife has the final say and she wanted dark green....

Have to see what she says when she sees them. She might want more samples....

[gwri8]

Maybe it's the lighting, but your 235 looks very much like my 240?  It looks like it has more depth. Direct sunlight makes a huge difference with metallic paint and that will be the tell of the tale.

Couple of comparison photos for you.

[Patcon]

3 hours ago, wheee! said:

lacquer clear coat

Are you running traditional lacquer as a finished top coat or catalyzed clear coat?

[wheee!]

29 minutes ago, gwri8 said:

Maybe it's the lighting, but your 235 looks very much like my 240?  It looks like it has more depth. Direct sunlight makes a huge difference with metallic paint and that will be the tell of the tale.

I like your green very much, but it is the lightest version of 240 green I have ever seen... Again, mine is a water based mix so that may have some play here but I'm not sure. It DOES look very close to the 2335 on the nose of the fender (to which I am partial) The other colours I sprayed look nothing like their paint chip samples either!