1976 280Z Restoration Project

[grannyknot]

9 hours ago, wheee! said:

I am going to make the same one Grannyknot made for his build. Super simple. He ended up using hand bends for most of it though. Just the bottom frame rail section is the most obvious.

Dam, I could have sent it along in the same boxSenility is creeping up.

[wheee!]

Dam, I could have sent it along in the same box:facepalm:Senility is creeping up.

, I searched the forum for the details, thinking it was someone else that built it for some reason. When I found it in your thread, I was like, duuuhhh..... too funny. No big deal. Shipping would cost as much as building one.

[wheee!]

BTW, forum brethren. The Eastwood flaring tool is the schizel. Can't believe how easy it is to make perfect flares...
Pro tip: the single rubber insulators are NOT cut and just slide onto the line prior to the nut and before flaring. Don't ask me how I know....

[ksechler]

5 minutes ago, wheee! said:

BTW, forum brethren. The Eastwood flaring tool is the schizel. Can't believe how easy it is to make perfect flares...
Pro tip: the single rubber insulators are NOT cut and just slide onto the line prior to the nut and before flaring. Don't ask me how I know....

Yes, I've been known to flare a line or two without the nut... 

Good luck! Doing the lines is rewarding but also a big PITA.  

[Captain Obvious]

11 minutes ago, wheee! said:

The Eastwood flaring tool is the schizel.
Pro tip: the single rubber insulators are NOT cut

Wow... Completely coincidental. I was doing the exact same thing yesterday!! With the exact same tools, and learning the exact same lessons!

Making new lines for my buddy's 260:

[SteveJ]

1 hour ago, wheee! said:

BTW, forum brethren. The Eastwood flaring tool is the schizel. Can't believe how easy it is to make perfect flares...
Pro tip: the single rubber insulators are NOT cut and just slide onto the line prior to the nut and before flaring. Don't ask me how I know....

Is this the tool you are referring to? http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

[ksechler]

3 hours ago, SteveJ said:

Is this the tool you are referring to? http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

I have that tool too!.  It rocks.  It'll flare stainless steel too.  You just have to pull on it harder.  

[wheee!]

That is indeed the correct tool. Grannyknot shipped me his to play with.

[wheee!]

6 hours messing around in the garage today. Just going to bolt this back in I think. So much easier!





...jk!

Put in the back brake lines first.


I then made up the main line from the front... 6" too short! That's why you buy 50' of this stuff! I will have some spare line leftover but it is cheaper to order more to start with than to reorder!

[SteveJ]

5 minutes ago, wheee! said:

6 hours messing around in the garage today. Just going to bolt this back in I think. So much easier!

...jk!

Put in the back brake lines first.


I then made up the main line from the front... 6" too short! That's why you buy 50' of this stuff! I will have some spare line leftover but it is cheaper to order more to start with than to reorder!

That was the reason I bought over twice as much braided hose as I needed. It gave me the opportunity for a few practice cuts.

[ksechler]

Brilliant!  You're off to a good start.  Are you using stock brakes?  I forgot.  If not, you should add a wilwood proportioning valve for the rear brakes.  I put mine in under the hood near the master cylinder. 

[wheee!]

I am going to use the four bolt race pack from Arizona Z Cars. Wilwoods all around and rear discs.

I spoke with Reg Sumaru here in Edmonton with this same setup and he has a 260 with a built motor. 3.5 stroker. He is a master mechanic.

He is running the same brakes, 280ZX master cylinder and the 260 booster. No proportioning valve and he swears it is race stable. I may order one as insurance, but I am going to use the 280ZX master and the 280Z booster. Should be enough.