1976 280Z Restoration Project

[wheee!]

Thanks Matt! I was using photos of your lines to show me where things went properly. Looking at your black lines was what gave me the idea of colour coded ones for myself!

[ksechler]

What ends are you using for the fuel lines?  Are you keeping the stock FI?  Somewhere I found a high pressure 5/16" compression fitting to AN-6 that worked well.  Maybe Summit Racing?  If you go that route put them on now!  It's harder to get the wrenches in there to tighten them properly with all the suspension stuff back in.  

Your fuel lines look real nice.  Good job!  Do you think you will be able to get it going before winter or will this one be seeing the road next spring? 

[wheee!]

I have put the crimps back into the fuel lines for the high pressure hose to clamp onto. I looked at those AN fittings for the fuel lines but with the stock FI system at about 56 psi, I am comfortable with hose clamps at those points. Those AN fittings are quite large too. I have routed the feed line up the firewall and across towards the fuel rail. The return line connects lower at the bottom of the firewall. I have black nylon covered steel braided FI hose to connect to the lines. The upper hardware is all AN fittings.

[wheee!]

I know it looks like I am going gangbusters on this project, but I am still probably two summers away from a running chassis. It's more about the large amount of outstanding parts i need to purchase still. Brakes should be ordered this month along with other Arizona Z Car goodies. Hopefully, the Techno Toy parts can be ordered shortly after that. That's about $10,000 right there.
I still need the power steering system and the air conditioning units at about another $4000. Dash restoration and gauge customization another $1000, interior restoration and parts another $3000, body work and paint another $3000, wheels and tires another $2000, glass, trim, hoses, grommets, and oh! Wait! What about the motor!!? Fuel injection computer replacement, engine rebuild and parts....$?
If money were no object it could be done in a year. Keep in mind I am a one man show that serves in the military. I'm usually gone at least 4 months of the year on training etc.
I'm a patient man I guess...

[EuroDat]

Awesome work Mark.

[Mark Maras]

"Going gangbusters" is the right term considering the meticulous quality of your work. I'm enjoying seeing someone "Make a silk purse out of a sow's ear." "They" said it couldn't be done.

[wheee!]

[ksechler]

You might find that fuel regulator location will give you grief.  You're going to have battery cables and a lot of wiring very close by.  I enclosed a picture of how I ran mine in case it helps you with the placement.  I was really concerned about putting things where something else might need to go later.  I was pretty lucky - no major conflicts.

[wheee!]

Actually your picture shows exactly where I wanted place it and how much clearance there will be. The left side of the regulator is blocked off, the right side is input from fuel rail and the bottom is return to tank. The battery cables will run beside and to the left of the regulator pretty cleanly I think!

[wheee!]

More progress. Will have to wait for the final brake line (rear distribution block to stock rear proportioning valve) to be made and put in position as I don't have the Wilwood valve yet. The old line is there so not to get lost. Brake cylinder in place for positioning the lines.

 

Started the butyl soundmat install in the driver footwell too. Needed to mount the clutch cylinder so the footwell had to go in.

 

[Patcon]

What Satin black did you use? I don't remember seeing that mentioned...

[wheee!]

Just now, Patcon said:

What Satin black did you use? I don't remember seeing that mentioned...

Can't remember the brand at the moment, but it was just a quality rattle can satin black... nothing super special. I have satin black powder coating material for anything that can take the heat....