Bolted the Wilwood prop valve to the Nabco warning light distribution block.

Routed the rear brake lines back to the stock prop valve.

And yes, that is a bit of paint that peeled where a residual drop of brake fluid from the master cylinder fell onto the front rail. I will have to touch that up later... [emoji35]

 

These look pretty meaty!

Next up is to disassemble this mess. Start cutting the strut tubes to weld in the coilovers.

Mark, you installed the brake lines while the car was still on the rotisserie? That is completely cheating! Wish I had thought of that.

Hey take lots of pics when you do the coil over cutting, I think I have that job coming up and would appreciate any tips. Looking very good.

Will do Chris. I finished my last two brake flares (hopefully) today too. Had to use imperial fittings to the prop valve.
My son in law is looking forward to the coilover work too. He will do the stick welding...

3 minutes ago, wheee! said:

He will do the stick welding...

Not MIG'ing them?

Not MIG'ing them?

He can stack dimes with a stick. I think it will look and work better with stick. He is more comfortable that way too so I think that's the way to go.

Understand...

Yes please, details on the coilovers. 

Wonder how old those outer tierods are. No grease zerks. The boots look deflated too. Just an observation. Wonder how long the PO drove it that way.

 

just curious as to why you need 2 prop valves?

26 minutes ago, sweatybetty said:

just curious as to why you need 2 prop valves?

It's a 280 thing 

The prop valve compensates for the changeover from drum to disc. Stock valve may not cut it.