1976 280Z Restoration Project

[Patcon]

The heat lamp aught to help keep the shop warm.

[wheee!]

The heat lamp aught to help keep the shop warm.

The house sized furnace already does a good job of that!

Mark. When you cut the wires of the circuit board, cut them as close as possible to the board. That will give you move room to move during the assembly. My experience......

Yes indeed. I need to pick up the remainder of the supplies before I go further. I have a good soldering iron and skills in that department as well. Need to find some heat transfer paste locally though.

[sweatybetty]

On 12/14/2017 at 8:09 PM, wheee! said:

Wired up my carbon fibre heat lamp today. Now I can powder coat large items.

The lamp head moves up and down the pole. I will hang large objects in front of the lamp and then move the lamp around the object to cure the powder.

Close up of the carbon fibre elements.

better oil the bearings on your electric meter. that heater has to suck up the power

[wheee!]

Cheaper than paying a powder coater...

[wheee!]

Hmmm. Seems I missed a basic point here... this mod is for a 5 wire E12-21A TIU

Mine is an E12-13 model with seven wires. I need to find more info about the extra wiring I guess!




Instructions

[Zed Head]

The two extra wires are for the extra pickup coil in the distributor.  You'll lose one if you convert to the GM HEI module.  It will only cause a low idle during warm-up, in between the time that the engine gets fully warm and the AAR closes.  The extra pickup coil advances the timing when the engine is cold, increasing idle RPM.

The FSM has great diagrams of the TEI's, and Saridout's wiring diagram has the colors, if they're not in the FSM.

[EuroDat]

Mark, 

You have basically the Fed model with a dual pickup. You can use one pickup (green or red) with the brown, and it will work fine. The white one is for the temperature switch, but the HEI module won't use that.

The FED/Canadian models hed a retarded timing when cold.

This diagram should help.

 

TIU280Z1976_REV1.pdf

Edited December 18, 2017 by EuroDat

[wheee!]

10 hours ago, Zed Head said:

The two extra wires are for the extra pickup coil in the distributor.  You'll lose one if you convert to the GM HEI module.  It will only cause a low idle during warm-up, in between the time that the engine gets fully warm and the AAR closes.  The extra pickup coil advances the timing when the engine is cold, increasing idle RPM.

The FSM has great diagrams of the TEI's, and Saridout's wiring diagram has the colors, if they're not in the FSM.

This makes sense. I have removed all of the extra components on my intake so I will be losing some of these features like the cold start injector anyways. The car will only be summer driven....

9 hours ago, EuroDat said:

Mark, 

You have basically the Fed model with a dual pickup. You can use one pickup (green or red) with the brown, and it will work fine. The white one is for the temperature switch, but the HEI module won't use that.

The FED/Canadian models hed a retarded timing when cold.

This diagram should help.

 

TIU280Z1976_REV1.pdf

So you're saying I should solder the brown to the green or red wire and join them both to the connection on the HEI unit?

(In my case, green with white stripe or green with red stripe to yellow)

Edited December 18, 2017 by wheee!

[ksechler]

Why not go with something electronic?  I use an XDI with a crank trigger sensor.  It's so much easier to just whip out the laptop to make adjustments.

[wheee!]

Maybe for the built motor. The stockish engine is going back in first so this is merely a reliability improvement and a way to eliminate possible future faults.

[Hodgimus-maximus]

Might as well get the kinks worked out on a stockish motor than on a built one. All the wiring is exactly the same. But at that price I would go with an assembled MS3 or MS3X which can do fuel and ignition.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Correcting a word corrected by auto correct

[Zed Head]

Not trying to one-up, just clarifying.  Even though it doesn't really matter much for this case.  Took me a while to logic out the second pickup.  Sometimes it's called an Emissions function but it's described in Engine Mechanical.  Attached a picture.

Also attached a picture showing the wire that is common to both pickups.   Actually, Green is the common wire and Red or Brown are the separated wires. The key is just to make sure that the two wires to G and W on the HEI module actually pass through a pickup in the distributor.  Green goes to G on the HEI module (for proper polarity) so Red or Brown could go to W.  It seems complex but once you get in there it's just G to G, coil negative to C, battery power to B, and the other side of the pickup coil (not G, either Red or Brown) to W.  And make sure the module is grounded well.

 I had a 5 wire Nissan module in my car for a while and I just left the unused wires disconnected, and sealed the ends.