1976 280Z Restoration Project

[EuroDat]

First pass. Wow that stripper really does its job. Looking good.

[wheee!]

I was amazed as well. First time I’ve used it. The added bonus is that it is removing any hidden undercoating in the process. I will need to clean this really well, but overall I’m impressed. Lots more to go...

Edit: I also regret starting the paint removal with the green pad from Eastwood. The remaining primer seems to have bonded to the metal stronger than the area not stripped by the pad. I will have to sand the surface there to make it blend with the perfectly cleaned other half...

Edited October 30, 2018 by wheee!

[Captain Obvious]

17 hours ago, zKars said:

I have a nice little firewall mount adapter for these things that works pretty slick, and matching ball sockets

Yup. My pass through the firewall was based on your fantastic work preceding mine. Mine is pretty much the same concept, but different shapes.

My connection to the pedal is very different though. I ditched the original ball and attached a bracket to the end of the pedal to make connection to the cable. Not easily reversible, but I started with a donor pedal that was already screwed up by a previous owner's attempt to run a cable.

So for some pics of what zKars did, have a look here:
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58472-throttle-cable-upgrade-all-the-way-to-the-pedal/

And I still promise pics of mine when I get some.

[wheee!]

This write up is pretty good too...

http://www.arizonazcar.com/cableinstall.html

[wheee!]

So after a fair amount of thought and advice from Jim, I ordered the throttle cable and will see about making some modifications to the Borla/TWM throttle body linkage to accept the cable.
In the meantime, I am thinking of running the cable through the old linkage guides!

I will probably extend the throttle linkage to line up with the cable under the guides. Jim’s firewall adapter will probably end up on the car along with a ball clip on the throttle pedal.

[Patcon]

Aircraft stripper works really good! It will burn you if you splash yourself. It is dangerous stuff so work in a ventilated area. It can be difficult to purchase in some areas. I have used a lot of it over the years and it is my go to method for stripping old paint. Respirator is highly recommended!!

[wheee!]

Agreed. I have all the safety equipment.

[wheee!]

Well I think that is good enough for the paint stripper. I will give it a light sand prior to epoxy primer.

[Patcon]

You might want to pretreat the few little rust spots with phosphoric. I would do some research first though. I have seen some info that suggest some epoxies don't like to go over acid treated panels very well. I haven't had any issues with adhesion but some people have evidently had the epoxy come off in big pieces. If you do acid treat the rust spots, which is what I would do, especially after the paint failures on Cody's goon. I would go back after converting and sand the panel really well and shoot epoxy right afterwards. That would remove any excess acid residue and get you down to good metal and good iron phosphate

[wheee!]

Not a bad plan. I was going to try and sand them down to bare metal first. As long as it’s just surface rust...

[wheee!]

Started on the top of the hood this weekend.... let’s see where this rabbit hole goes!

[DC871F]

On 11/5/2018 at 8:55 AM, wheee! said:

Started on the top of the hood this weekend.... let’s see where this rabbit hole goes!

All right, so after stripping to bare metal, are you going to epoxy prime, then do filler work?

Looks pretty straight.