1976 280Z Restoration Project

[wheee!]

Not really a need within Haltech. @Chickenman has been helping me learn the secrets of Haltech and their very cool ESP program. The COP's I chose are based on on coil strength and form/fit/function. I wanted something that would deliver a hot spark quickly and reliably. I also wanted a small footprint at the top of the COP as I knew it would be sticking up fairly high. I also wanted it to have a bolt hole to secure it. AND it needed to be affordable. I bought 6 of these for under $100 Cdn.

The finished look will make the COP's look less out of place as I will have an aluminum support plate that will create a standoff and mounting location for them.

[Captain Obvious]

Well I understand that the function is much more important than form here. I was just thinking you might be able to find something that didn't cantilever out so far from the block. I took a thirty second look on ebay, and it seems that 99% of the COP stuff is of similar form to what you already have. Designed for getting down between the cams of a DOHC head.

Here's about the only one I found that was NOT like that. I think it's for a Lexus. Ebay item number 323710944016:

One other thought... Since the long stalk on all of those DOHC designed COP modules is just an insulator so it doesn't spark to the inside of the tube... How about the prospects of cutting it down and shortening it? It's probably just Bakelite or something similar. And inside is some kind of spring or other conductor. You might be able to modify what you have to cut down the length?

I've got that style on my Highlander and I've had them out of the engine a couple times. I even bench tested them, but never dissected one to that level.

[siteunseen]

On 2/22/2019 at 5:28 PM, wheee! said:

How do I get the old speedo cog out?

You might as well replace the seals 'while you're at it" 

Big thanks to @Chickenman for the p/ns.

Read a bit further, Chickenman posted in another thread the only part still available from nissan was the seal below.  I remember now, seems like i used a 10mm deep socket to push it down.

 

Edited February 28, 2019 by siteunseen

[wheee!]

I'm not too concerned about reducing the height. When the support is in place, it will look more like the COPs belong there. As it is, the support will come off of the valve cover bolts flat, then bend down to accommodate the mounting angle. 

[wheee!]

Kinda like this:

[Captain Obvious]

Gotcha. I am a little worried about vibration and the mounting scheme however. Do those bottom six holes mount to the engine at all, or are the only attachment points to the engine the three small tabs along the top that catch valve cover bolts?

I'm EE and not ME, but I'm concerned that vibration will crack those three little tabs on the top and you'll have coils flying all over the place.

I'm sure you have more experience in such things though. What are your thoughts?

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

You might as well replace the seals 'while you're at it" 

Read a bit further, Chickenman posted in another thread the only part still available from nissan was the seal below.  I remember now, seems like i used a 10mm deep socket to push it down.

You might be able to get a generic replacement.  Those types of seal are sized by inner diameter, outer diameter and thickness.

I took an old seal to a bearing house and they had no problem finding a generic part.  

Here's an example of the huge number out there.

https://www.powerindustries.com/catalogs/US_Seal_Mfg_Catalog_2012.pdf

[wheee!]

33 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Gotcha. I am a little worried about vibration and the mounting scheme however. Do those bottom six holes mount to the engine at all, or are the only attachment points to the engine the three small tabs along the top that catch valve cover bolts?

I'm EE and not ME, but I'm concerned that vibration will crack those three little tabs on the top and you'll have coils flying all over the place.

I'm sure you have more experience in such things though. What are your thoughts?

Well, the coils will bolt to the Aluminum plate, which should add some stability. The COP boots fit very tight and are hard to pull off, so I think they will be ok. The three top mount valve cover bolts will help stabilize the plate and I could also tie in to the Heater hose bolt underneath for added strength. The decorative plate is just that, a way to hide the signal wires etc.

[Hodgimus-maximus]

20 hours ago, wheee! said:

This looks interesting! I need to fabricate a support for them but, yup, I like it!

I don’t know if those are logic level coils that can be driven directly by the Haltech. if they aren’t you can go with ford coils and a igniter box and use this http://www.blakemachine.com/performance_parts_by_blake_machine/datsun_coil_on_plug_brackets_6__4_cylinder

[wheee!]

No, they are logic level coils. No problems with driving the signal from the Haltech. They are wired hot from the ignition source and then triggered with a ground pulse. Multiple levels of control in dwell time’s etc. I’m very excited to learn all of the features in the Haltech.
One example is the control of the A/C switch through Haltech. The engine load will cut off the A/C under WOT and increase idle speed upon A/C coming on etc. Very cool.
I have an Idle Air Control valve from a VW Golf too. That is totally controlled through Haltech as well.

[wheee!]

I looked at the Blake parts and decided I didn’t want to go with separate igniters and wasted spark etc.
I didn’t want to see plug wires at all!

[grannyknot]

1 hour ago, wheee! said:

I have an Idle Air Control valve from a VW Golf too.

That is identical to the old bmw IAC I use on my Z, they haven't changed the design since the 80s.